101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, From Morocco to Indonesia, #47-#52

JOURNEYS

-CAMEL HOBBLES, WHEN NOMADS AND CARAVANEERS STOP FOR THE NIGHT, CAMELS TOO MUST BE STOPPED

-LATEEN SAIL, PRACTICAL RIG FOR DHOWS, FELUCCAS, AND FACTORY-MADE SUNFISH SAILBOATS

-QURAN RECITATION CD, HUNG FROM A CAR'S REAR VIEW MIRROR, MUCH MORE OSTENTATIOUS THAN A BOXED QURAN ON THE BACK SEAT SHELF

-TUAREG CAMEL TRAPPINGS, LEATHER TRIM AND POMPOMS, often also TACKED GAUDILY AROUND THE WINDOWS OF THE FRONT CAB AS DECORATION FOR TRANS-SAHARAN LORRIES

-ASTROLABE

-CALOTYPE OF TAJ MAHAL BY PHOTOGRAPHER DR. JOHN MURRAY, CIRCA 1856, WHO ESTABLISHED THE STANDARD POVS FOR MILLIONS OF SELFIE AND SNAPSHOT CRAZED TOURISTS, THOSE WHO APPEAR TO PLUCK UP THE PLACE BY ITS DOME TOPPED FINIAL BETWEEN FOREFINGER AND THUMB, WHO FOLLOWED IN FOLLOWING CENTURIES

 

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101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, From Morocco to Indonesia, #42-#46

PAGES OF ARABIC PENMANSHIP

-KUFIC, GEOMETRIC, THE LANGUAGE’S ORIGINAL SCRIPT

-NASKH, CALLIGRAPHIC CURSIVE “1.0”, FROM WHICH OTHER CURSIVES DEVELOPED

-RUQ’A, BALL POINT PEN CURSIVE, HOW EVERYONE WRITES….EVEN A LAUNDRY LIST WILL DO…

-NASTA’LIQ, FOR PERSIAN AND URDU

-SINI, CHINESE CALLIGRAPHY-INSPIRED, EXAMPLE OF OTHER REGIONAL SCRIPTS EG. SOUDANI AND ANDALUSI

 

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101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, From Morocco to Indonesia, #32-#41

OBJECTS NAMED BY THEIR PARTICULAR PLACE

-KASHMIRI SHAWL, 19TH C EUROPEAN MASS MANUFACTURE FAD, BENT CEDAR MOTIF NAMED FOR WEAVING CTR. OF PAISLEY, SCOTLAND

-BIDRIWARE BOWL, INLAID METALWORK, 16TH C, BIDAR, DECCAN INDIA

-ALHAMBRA VASE, VERY RARE GOLD-TONE LUSTERWARE URNS, 14-15TH C, NASRID SPAIN

-CAUCASUS CARPET, KNOWN FOR DIVERSE UNIQUE DESIGNS WITHIN CONFINED MOUNTAIN VALLEYS, PATTERNS CODIFIED/CATALOGUED BY 20TH C AZERI CARPET SCHOLAR LATIF KARIMOV

-IZNIK PLATE, UNIQUE COLORS AND GLAZE, 16-17TH C, IZNIK, WESTERN ANATOLIA

-DAMASCENE STEEL

-BASRA PEARLS, QURANIC SYMBOLS OF PARADISE (35:33) AND GOD’S POWER (55:22), LOOSE AS CURRENCY UNITS, SET IN JEWELRY AS DOWRY WEALTH

-ANGORA GOAT

-TANGERINE FRUIT

-MOKHA COFFEE BEAN

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101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, From Morocco to Indonesia, #27-#31

BODY CARE

-HENNA POWDER PACKET- A NATURAL HAIR DYE USED THROUGHOUT THE ISLAMIC LANDS, WITH HADITH TRADITION TIED TO PROPHET MUHAMMAD, SPREAD NOW TO THE MULTI-BILLION DOLLAR WORLDWIDE BEAUTY INDUSTRY, POPULARIZED IN EUROPE BY “RED HAIR” CRAZE OF 19TH C PRE-RAPHAELITE PAINTERS- NB, ONLY ELIZABETH SIDDAL, THE DRUG ADDICTED WIFE AND MODEL OF DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI, HIMSELF WITH A RED BEARD, AMONG THEIR CIRCLE WAS A NATURAL GINGER

-KOHL STICK, FOR EYELINER, THE POETIC TROPE OF “GAZELLE EYES”, FROM ELIZABETH TAYLOR’S CLEOPATRA TO A SUDANESE DROVERS SONG COMPARING A CAMEL’S EYE TO A SEIKO WATCH

-ARGAN OIL GLASS, VIAL

-LAUREL OIL SOAP, BAR

-NEEM STICK, OR MISWAK, SANCTIONED FOR USE BY PROPHET MUHAMMAD, FOR TOOTH BRUSHING

 

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101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, From Morocco to Indonesia, #19-#26

WEARABLES AND COVERINGS

-A LIBYAN MEN'S TOGA-LIKE CLOAK, JARID, FROM ROMAN INFLUENCE, QADDAFI OFTEN APPEARED IN ONE, FROM THE VERBAL ROOT JARADA MEANING TO DENUDE, DIVEST, STRIP, BARE

-A PHULKARI SHAWL, A ONE OF A KIND SILK THREAD EMBROIDERY FOR PUNJABI BRIDES, SYMBOL OF DOWRY WEALTH

-A MALAYSIAN SONGKOK, A BRIMLESS BLACK MAN'S HAT, ASSOCIATED WITH MUSLIM SEPARATIST IDENTITY DURING THE INDEPENDENCE MOVEMENT

-A WOOL FELTED SHEPHERD CLOAK FROM ANATOLIA, ITS MULTI-USE DOUBLES AS CHIMNEY AND WIND BREAK FOR TEA FIRES WHILE TENDING SHEEP, AS A WARMING WRAP FOR NEWBORN LAMBS, A SYMBOL OF WINTER PASTORALISM

-A SPORTS HIJAB, SYMBOL OF GROWING MUSLIM WOMEN’S PRESENCE IN OLYMPIC SPORTS, NIKE DESIGNED ONE FOR MUSLIM AMERICAN FENCER IBTIHAJ MUHAMMAD

-SPACE AGE “META-MATERIALS”, BASED ON ISLAMIC GEOMETRY,

-CALLIGRAPHIC BATIKS, OTTOMAN TUGHRA-INFLUENCED DESIGN, FROM JAMBI IN WESTERN SUMATRA

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101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, From Morocco to Indonesia, #15-#18

TRADE AND COMMERCE

-A SHARIAH-COMPLIANT CREDIT CARD, EVEN THE BRITISH MUSEUM’S 100 OBJECTS SERIES PUTS THIS AT #99, JUST BEFORE A SOLAR POWERED PHONE CHARGER

-THE GOLD COIN OF ABD AL MALIK IBN MARWAN, 9TH CENTURY UMAYYAD CALIPH, WITH QURANIC INSCRIPTION, THE FIRST TO USE RELIGIOUS TEXT AND NOT ROYAL PORTRAITURE TO GUARANTEE PAYMENT 

-A MARIA THALER COIN, THE BASIC CURRENCY OF GULF STATES FIRST MINTED ALMOST THREE HUNDRED YEARS AGO, WHEN WESTERN IMPERIALISTS PUT THEIR DESIGNS OF THE REGION, SOMETHING LIKE A PACK OF KENT CIGARETTES IN THE BALKANS DURING THE MOST RECENT WAR, AN ARBITRARY HOLDER OF WEALTH, BY WHICH LOCAL PRODUCTS WERE VALUED IN FOREIGN EQUIVALENCE, A GLOBAL PRESTIGE OBJECT MAKING TRADE CONNECTIONS TO THE WIDER WORLD 

-A MODERN BANK CHECK, A PIECE OF PAPER BASED ON THE ISLAMIC FINANCIAL INSTRUMENT THE SAKK, WHICH FOR INSTANCE THE 11TH CENTURY TRAVELER NASIR I KUSRAW DESCRIBED CASHING IN BASRA

 

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101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, From Morocco to Indonesia, #8-#14

PILGRIMAGE AND PIETY

-A HAJJ MAP, TYPICAL OF THE CENTURIES BEFORE GPS, SHOWING MECCA IN RELATION TO PILGRIM'S POINT OF ORIGIN

-A HAJJ GUIDE, BROCHURE IN MANY LANGUAGES, FOR PILGRIMS TO EXPLAIN RITUALS AND REQUIREMENTS WHILE EN ROUTE TO MECCA, ON SITE, AND ON THEIR RETURN

-IHRAM CLOTHING, NO STITCHING OR SEAMS, CLEAN WHITE, LEAVE BEHIND EVERYTHING FROM YOUR PAST LIFE, EXCEPT FOR YOUR WALLET

-A BISMALLAH, IN THE NAME OF ALLAH, PRINTED CALLIGRAPHY WITH PEEL-OFF ADHESIVE BACK, WHICH YOU MIGHT STICK ON ANYTHING YOU MIGHT USE OR NEED, A CAR OR A SCHOOL BOOK, TO SHOW GOD’S OMNIPRESENCE IN DAILY LIFE

-A PHONE APP QIBLA FINDER, MUCH BETTER THAN THE ASTROLABE, THE SUN DIAL, OR WAITING FOR THE MAGHRIB, PLACE IN THE WEST, WHERE THE SUN SETS

-A SILK PRAYER RUG, NOT WOOLEN PILE OR COTTON FLAT WEAVE, A LUXURIOUS SPACE THAT CAN WITHSTAND THE PHYSICAL PROSTRATIONS- FOREHEAD PRESSED TO THE GROUND, KNEES AND BACK BENT LOW- OF ISLAMIC PRAYER, 5 TIMES PER DAY, EACH ABOUT 10 MINUTES IN DURATION, SO SAY 50 MINUTES PER DAY, ALMOST 6 HOURS PER WEEK, 300 HOURS PER YEAR, OR 18,000 HOURS OVER A 60 YEAR LIFETIME SPENT ON THIS PERSONAL 3’ X 5’ PRIVATE LIFE RAFT

-A ZAMZAMIYYA FLASK, FOR WATER DRAWN FROM THE WELL AT ZAMZAM IN MECCA, NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE ZAMZAMA, THE CANNON ON WHICH SAT KIM OUTSIDE THE HOUSE OF WONDERS, THE LAHORE MUSEUM

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Bengali language guide to the hajj rituals

Bengali language guide to the hajj rituals

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Muslim Assistant is one of the best Qibla apps for android and iOS users. It is a popular real assistant for Muslims which allows you to know the prayer time, Qibla directions, Iftar & Suhour times and others. It also has listed holy Quran, Jumm…

Muslim Assistant is one of the best Qibla apps for android and iOS users. It is a popular real assistant for Muslims which allows you to know the prayer time, Qibla directions, Iftar & Suhour times and others. It also has listed holy Quran, Jummah messages, and others so that you can read and share them with your friends. One of the best feature of this app is to arrange the prayer times according to different country and city. You have to enable your GPS and get the correct time on your smartphone.

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101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, From Morocco to Indonesia, #2-#7

A PIECE OF THE WHOLE

-FROM THE MOROCCAN (OR MORE PROPERLY SAID FASSI, NATIVE OF FEZ) ART OF ZILLIJ IS THE FURMAH, THE THUMBNAIL SIZE, GEOMETRICALLY SHAPED, CUT AND CHISELED GLAZED TILE THAT, WHEN PIECED TOGETHER WITH OTHERS AND PLACED UPSIDE DOWN, CEMENTED AND LIFTED RIGHTSIDE UP INTO A POLYCHROME MOSAIC, CREATES, SAY, AN EXPLOSIVE MI’INI (100) POINT STAR

-A GRAIN OF SAND, THE TINIEST COMPONENT OF THE SAHARA, ITS “SALTATION” DESCRIBED BY DESERT EXPLORER AND AMATEUR SCIENTIST RALPH BAGNOLD IN HIS CLASSIC PHYSICS OF BLOWN SAND AND DESERT DUNES, FROM RESEARCH CONDUCTED IN A WIND TUNNEL IN ENGLAND TO RECREATE THE CONDITIONS OF THE KHAMSEEN, THE FIFTY DAY WIND COMING FROM THE SOUTH

-A HORSESHOE ARCH IN THE CORDOBA MOSQUE, ONE OF HUNDREDS, THE LAW OF THE PHYSICS OF VECTOR FORCES EXPLAINS WHY IT ADDS STRENGTH TO BEAUTY

-A FARKH, THE LATHE-TURNED, PLUG-SHAPED, THUMB-SIZE WOODEN COMPONENT- a baluster- OF A MASHRABIYA SCREEN, THAT WHEN ERECTED IN OPEN WINDOWS SEPARATES THE INSIDE FROM OUT, WOMEN FROM MEN, THE PRIVATE FROM THE PUBLIC

-A FRAGMENT OF MONUMENTAL CALLIGRAPHIC TILE LIFTED FROM A FRIEZE, OFTEN JUST A PIECE OF A SINGLE WORD, LETTER, OR DIACRITICAL MARK- PERHAPS A SUQUN OR AN ALIF MANQUS, A “DEFICIENT ALIF”- THAT WHEN COMPLETED TOGETHER WITH ITS SISTER PANELS CREATES THE FULL SENSE OF THE SENTENCE, IN CERAMIC

-A CYLINDER SEAL FROM NINEVAH, EACH SEAL A PARTIAL PHRASE IN A LONGER DOCUMENT ABOUT, SAY, COMMERCE OR LAW, OR PERHAPS A WARNING OR AN ADMONITION- “THIS LAND IS PROTECTED BY FURROW WORK”

-A HEMISTICH, OR HALF-LINE OF PRE-ISLAMIC ARABIC POETRY, THE BUILDING BLOCK OF A QASIDA, AS IN THE MU’ALLAQAT OF IMRU AL-QAYS, “STOP O FRIENDS TO WEEP OVER THE MEMORY OF MY BELOVED”

 

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101 Objects from the Lands of Islam- How to Count, Cook, Calligraph and More, from Morocco to Indonesia, #1

Note- this series is inspired by the British Museum’s History of the World in 100 Objects, from #1 Egyptian Mummy to #100 Solar Powered Lamp

HOW TO START

WITH THE LETTER ALIF, A SINGLE DOWNWARD STROKE TO BEGIN THE LETTERS OF THE ARABIC ALPHABET, AS MY TEACHER AHMAD TAHIR HASSANAYN ONCE SAID, "ALIF COMES FIRST IN THE DICTIONARY, AND BEHIND IT FOLLOWS INFINITY". FROM BORGES’ ALL-SEEING STORY “THE ALEPH”, TO THE WEHR DICTIONARY’S THIRD ENTRY FOR THE TRILITERAL ROOT ALIF, LAM, FA’- ILF, MEANING LOVER, OR MU’ALLIF, MEANING WRITER, ALL THE WAY TO THE ALIF’S TWIN BROTHER WAHID, THE COUNTABLE ONE, THE SAME VERTICLE SINGLE STROKE, BUT NOT USED ALWAYS TO COUNT OBJECTS AS IN ENGLISH, VIZ. ONE THOUSAND AND ONE NIGHTS, BUT HERE IS ALF LAYLA WA LAYLA, AS TRANSLATED LITERALLY, A THOUSAND NIGHTS AND A NIGHT, NOT ONE THOUSAND AND ONE OF ANYTHING ELSE


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Urban Pathfinding

published in the Christian Science Monitor, September 1990

“Continuing straight ahead with blue markers, the trail descends at a fair grade through the conifer forest, crosses a brook, comes to a level stretch and passes a spring. Still descending moderately, a marshy tributary is crossed after which the trail reaches the right bank of the Opalescent River and crosses it on stones.'

- Directions from Avalanche Camp to Feldspar Brook, from Guide to Adirondack Trails

For a big-city resident like myself, pathfinding is quite a different problem  than  that faced by a hiker through the Adirondack Mountains. And even more different for a boy from the Mis­souri woods, where I once played. After living in New York for some 10 years now, I've learned that getting from here to there takes more than just following blue markers straight ahead, descending moderately, and crossing a river on stones.

It takes the ability to find and keep a single path through the mind before even setting out the door. What seems the inexorable linearity of tramping along a for­est trail becomes on city sidewalks a constantly shifting challenge to my original intentions. Walking down Fifth Avenue past million­ dollar boutiques and homeless people sharing the same block, how many times have I found myself asking, "Now where am I going?" If I weren't perfectly sure at the outset, I doubt I would ever arrive.

Although some may disagree,  I think people are far more likely to dally in a bookstore than beside a marshy tributary. A flashy dis­play in a store window  catches our attention longer than a coni­ fer  forest ever could.  I even think that  spotting  a Greta  Garbo out for a walk would stop us in our tracks faster and harder than suddenly catching the view of the Opalescent River.

 When I was young I lived next to some woods laced with many trails. Mos t of them ran sharply downhill toward the Missouri River, and each had a name. "Broken Tooth," famous for a sledding accident whose victim was long forgotten. "Smiley's, " in honor of the judge who  once lived at the bottom of its first dip. And "Living Bridge," which  had a gigantic oak tree, miraculously still living, blown across its steep gully.

I  hiked  through  those  woods all day, finding it pure pleasure to set off at the upper end of the run, knowing that at the bottom I would be stopped by a river too wide  to be crossed  on stones.

And. the trail really did lead straight ahead . especially in the summer when the undergrowth on both sides was so dense I could only see frontward. When the de­scent finally smoothed to the level, I knew I'd arrived where I wanted to go.

But 25 years later I'm not cer­tain if all those trails are still clear, I can't say if the "Living Bridge" is even still alive. It has been too long since I've set off down a path with that kind of foreknowledge, sure of how to get there and what I'll find when I do.

I wonder if living in the city is somehow the reason for this un­certainty. Or is it that my life now has too many paths toward too many goals?

I'd like to think it is the citv's fault  that  pathfinding   is  not  as easy now as it once was , because I've always intended to leave any­way. Move back to the country and  follow again a single trail. But I realize it has more  to  do  with who I am rather than where I live. After several career changes and with a family I too often ignore because my mind is elsewhere , I know the problem is mine,  not New York's.

So I can't in all honesty blame complicated subway line s and bus routes whenever I lose my way. Streets in New  York  are  marked at least as well as trails in the Adirondacks. And here  the y  are all numbered , so I have eve n less reason for getting lost.

When in midstride I suddenly forget where it is I'm going, it must be because I've forgotten something more important be­ fore setting out.

No, I can't blame that on where I live. The problem is the pathfinder , not the path.

 

The Chisholm Trail in Sudan, North to Cairo

 Note- published in the St.Louis Post Dispatch, December 27, 1987

·

VOICE SINGS in the desert, rising above the wind's steady rush over a campfire in the eastern Sahara. Singing for his fellow Kababish tribesmen assembled at the fire is Saeed abd al-Faraj, Servant of Joy.

Saeed is an illiterate camel drover from northwestern Sudan's Kordofan Province, an area ' devastated by drought and famine but still alive with the camel herding and poetic traditions stemming from the pre-history of the Arabian peninsula, from where the Kababish tribe is said to have come many centuries ago.

Saeed is entertaining his weary companions, who lightly interject their own oaths, praise and encouragement between the deep breaths the poet must take to reach the end of his long verses. The group has been driving a herd of camels from t eir home territory toward Cairo, about 1,000 miles to the north.'

As their guests, a friend and I recently had the first opportunity for outsiders to accompany the Kababish for the length of the Darb al-Arba'iin, or Trail of the Forty, so named for the journey's average number of days. The Sudan-to­-Cairo camel trade is perhaps the last such instance anywhere in the world of men driving livestock to distant markets, with unrestricted movement across large empty spaces.

The rituals, rhythms and hardships of trail life for the camel drovers are much the same as t!tey were for the American cowboy driving longhorns up the Chisholm Trail after the Civil War. Clint Eastwood as Rowdy Yates, Montgomery Clift in Howard Hawks' film "Red River," and the real-life E.C. "Teddy Blue" Abbott, Bylis John Fletcher and Thomas "Andy" Adams would have felt right at home sharing grub and wrapping up in their blankets beside Saeed and his companions Masood, Muhammad and trail boss KhairAllah after a long, dusty day in the saddle.

Abbott's We Pointed Them North (University of Oklahoma Press, 1966), Fletcher's Up the Trail in '79 (University of Oklahoma Press 1968) and Adam's The Log of a Cowboy (University of Nebraska Press 1964), three rare and now classic memoirs of the Chisholm Trail, closely mirror the life of their contemporary Sudanese confreres.

But whereas the songs of the cowpunchers recounted their long suffering on the trail, a camel drover today is more likely to sing of the pleasures found at trail's end. While on night watch, Teddy Blue would have softly lamented:

I'm up in the morning afore daylight

And afore I sleep the moon shines bright.

- No chaps and no slicker, and it'S pouring down rain,

And I swear by God that I'll never night-herd again,

Somewhere in the Sahara, Saeed tonight is probably sitting comfortably at the fire's edge, his camels securely hobbled and in no danger of stampeding or wandering, singing:

Her waist isn't flabby but her hips are wide,

Yet still just a hand can gird the buttocks riding high.

By the life of the Prophet! On a feast day!

Her gown shines brighter than the dawn's glow.

His fellows break into laughter when later Saeed makes it clear that the "her" of the poem is a she­ camel and not the young maid of whom all had been dreaming.

Mostly what lured cowboys onto the trail was the boredom of staying alone on the ranch for too long, or the hope of passing through Oga­lalla, the so-called Gomorrah of the cattle trail, and winding up the trip in the saloon-ridden railheads of Ab­ilene and Dodge City with a pocket full or wages. Young drover Berry Robuck or Lockhart, Texas, was ob­viously keeping secrets from his mother when he told Joe McCoy, builder of Abilene's cow palace, that "stampedes, high water, hailstones, thunder and lightning which played  on  the horns of  the cattle  and my horse's ears compensated for the unpleasant things."

For the Kababish tribesman, the excitement of seeing the new and different is partly what makes them, especially the young, endure the rough life of the trail. Cairo is, after all, Africa's largest  city, with more inhabitants than the entire Su­dan, and one of the most important religious capitals of Islam.

Hardship at home, however, is even a stronger motive to put the Kababish on the trail. Many have lost their own herds to the drought, either through thirst and starvation or in distress sales to the big mer­chants with whom they now sign on as drovers. An·d all are increasingly in need of cash wages.

But in all other aspects - the drover's wise-to-the-world superior­ity over the sedentary townsman, the trail's dangers from weather, terrain and human foe, the stacked, bleached bones of their fallen charges now used as cairns, the bone numbing fatigue from days and nights in the saddle, and the throat parching dust thrown up by the herd but rarely washed down by water - the camel men and cow­boys are brothers in both mind and body.

It's not for nothing that the pan-­handle town of Sudan, Texas, not far from Muleshoe, is situated in the same part of the state that the Kor­dofani village of Donkey Ear is situ­ated in the Sudan. To list all of Tex­as' cattle-named towns and the Sudan's camel-named villages would be too big a job.

Finding easy trails and watering the livestock at decent intervals was a major concern of both camel and cattle boss, even if a camel is much heartier than a longhorn. While the scent of a watering hole from miles away might stampede a herd of cat­tle going without water for only a couple of days, our camels had to be coaxed to drink after 12 dry days on the march. This was done by letting them graze amply beforehand to fill their bellies with roughage and wait­ing until the sun was well overhead. Even when near their death from thirst, camels can be very fickle drinkers.

A dominant animal - stronger, calmer and usually gelded - would quickly emerge in each herd and take the lead. Cattlemen depended on their lead animals more than camel men do theirs because the naturally skittish prairie cattle were always ready to stampede unless restrained from ahead. Old. Blue, a lead steer in a herd belong to Charles Goodnlght, became so indispensible on his first trail that he was led back to lead other drives, working eight seasons in all before being put out to pasture. His mounted adorned the Goodnight ranch office.

Because one rambunctious animal could set off the entire herd, various surgical procedures were performed on those misbehaving. Particularly wild steers would have their eyes sewn closed, and by the time that thread rotted, in about  two weeks, they would have become considerably meeker.

In a camel herd, the malcreant was always the rutting male, whose obscene "flaming grimace," slmilar to a horse laugh but with a deep gurgle, rearing head, and partial expu!sion of an inflated throat bladder, sends females into a frenzy and riles every other male. The only solution is to pierce his nostril  with string and hang a heavy object from this sensitive patch of skin, which stops short whenever he begins to cause trouble with a lusty toss of the head.

Rustlers were a common threat to both cttle and camel drovers. A routine modus operandi of the Old West’s “jayhawkers, red legs, and bushwackers" was to stampede the herd and then offer to round  up strays for five dollars a head. The Kababish faced the same kind of problem from desert thieves such as Billa All  al-Qurain  (The Little Horned One), who cut single camels from the herd during fast-paced, moonless night rides and then would ap­proach the trail boss the next day, demanding a bounty for the lost camel they claim to have found the night before.

Whlle camel drovers today and tomorrow will continue to share the same trail life that the cattle drovers lived about 100 years ago, they will undoubtedly also face the same future, as forces beyond their control draw their days of driving to a close.

Regardless of the camel trade's ability  to  rebound  from  the 1985 drought, it is clear that the camel drovers will soon find themselves out of the saddle so to speak. The laws of supply and demand - cheaper transportation costs of new roads and rail lines, changing con­sumer tastes, and the eventual ex­haustion of surplus livestock -   all contributed to the end of the cattle· drives on the Chisholm Trail, and will likewise hurry the demise of the Kababish camel drives on the Darb al-Arba'iin.

 


The Kasbah at Ait Ben Haddou- Desert Roots of Urban Architecture

Note- published in UNESCO Courier, June 1993

THE High Atlas mountain chain once divided Morocco into two distinct parts. The area of ample rainfall, bountiful agri­culture and placid village life to the north was called bled al-makhzan , the land of imperial governance. To the south, a rocky, sandy and sun-baked expanse stretched into the Sahara. This was bled al-siba , the land of disorder .

This geographical dichotomy did not always hold, however, as the great four­teenth-century Arab thinker Ibn Khaldun noted. Often called the father of modern sociology, Ibn Khaldun saw fundamental differences in the organizing principles and cultural bases of city life and desert life, but he also found ample evidence of parallels, and indeed of a symbiotic rela­tionship of such intensity that the unfolding of history itself depended on it. As he saw it, the seeds of urban culture's highest artistic and political achieve­ments , reached only through co-opera­tive enterprise, were buried somewhere deep in the soul of the lone desert horseman. Whenever nomads rode together in bands of even five or ten men , they incorporated a collective spirit and a joint purpose pushing inexorably towards a larger design.

The Moroccan desert is rich in exam­ples writ small of what were to be the seeds of dynastic urban grandeur. The southern oases along the lush green river valleys are cultivated with the same intensity and ingenuity as the north's fer­ tile plains. Clan loyalties once radiated from the southern strongholds of the local saint in much the same way that dynastic loyalties later spread from the imperial cities of Meknes, Fez and Rabat.

Perhaps nowhere are these parallels between desert and urban Moroccan cul­ ture more striking than in a comparison of Ait Ben Haddou, a hauntingly quiet fortified farming village south of the High Atlas, with the teeming, labyrinthine, cacophonous kasbah of old Fez. Both are on UNESCO' s World Heritage List, and one can visit neither without recalling the lessons taught by Ibn Khaldun.

ROOFTOP NOMADS

While Fez has a recorded history, a host of founding dynasts known by name, and precise construct ion dates for its earliest architecture, we know little of Ait Ben Haddou's Berber past. Its age as a human settlement, we can safely assume, is less than the geological age of the rock upon which it is built, but its proximity to known prehistoric sites in the Sahara indicates quite plausibly that it is cen­turies, if not millennia, older than Fez.

But we do know that it, like Fez, rep­ resents the acme of its own particular school of high-density, multi-use, envi­ronmentally-adapted architecture and town planning. Ait Ben Haddou's desert­ born model for urban design, applied with such stunning success to the Fez kasbah, dramatically illustrates Ibn Khaldun's unified theory of civilization .

For in Ait Ben Haddou city and desert living habits meet in unusual concord. Densely-packed, multi-story dwellings create an utterly urban atmosphere, yet their inhabitants still live something of a nomadic existence. In response to changing temperatures, they "migrate" from room to room, from rooftops where they sleep at night to ground-level cham­bers where they escape the midday heat, just as pastoralists move about in response to climate-induced changes in grazing and watering conditions.

Ait Ben Haddou is by no means southern Morocco's only fortified village constructed of stone, rammed earth, adobe brick and mud plaster. The valleys of the Dra, Dades, Gheria and Ziz rivers and their tributaries are studded with such settlements in all shapes and sizes. One stretch of the Dades is in fact known in the tourist guides as the "Route of the Kasbahs".

But the term "kasbah" leads to a certain amount of confusion when applied to the High Atlas and to pre­Saharan oases. The word can lead the unwary to imagine mistakenly the maze­-like alleyways and dead-ends of the imperial cities' enclosed palace precincts, now converted to mixed com­mercial and domestic use.

More precisely, however, desert kasbahs are the ex-residences of southern Morocco's once -great ruling families­ the Glaoui, the Goundafa and the M'tougga-usually built to stand alone on some imposing mountain spur. The only true kasbah of this type that remains largely intact is the Glaoui family's home at Telouet.

CASTLES AND KASBAHS

To describe the full range of southern Moroccan architecture, one needs to be familiar with two Berber words, agadir and tighremt, which refer respectively to fortified granaries and the multi-towered castles occupied by village headmen, as well as with the Arabic words kelaa and kasr, which refer to mountain citadel villages and to walled oasis settlements.

The so-called "kasbah" of rural Morocco is often in fact a tighremt, con­structed usually in the midst of the vil­lage. But since village housing is built contiguously and shares party walls, it becomes impossible over time to tell where the tighremt ends and the kasr begins. Separate construction thus takes on the look of an organic whole.

Ait Ben Haddou has at least four tighremt-like structures. Because the vi­llage is built for defensive purposes up the flank of a steep hill, the fairly rectilinear grid pattern of the typical kasr has here been abandoned in favour of a more fluid layout following the contour lines. As a result it exhibits even more than the usual amount of spatial disorientation.

The view looking down upon the multi-level flat roofs from the ruined hilltop agadir that overlooks Ait Ben Haddou takes in the overall plan of the village and the flow of its passageways. From this perspective the settlement calls to mind a geode, a geological forma­tion with which the region is rife, but a convex rather than a concave geode, with the massed, crystal-like cubic forms of its architecture jutting up from the dull reg­ularity of the surrounding landscape.

Village housing displays a perfect marriage of form, function, material and climate. In view of the latitude and the heat of the Sun, the ratio of habitable volume to exposed exterior surface is maximized by the networks of irregularly oriented walls shadowing courtyards and second-story family quarters. Flat open roofs provide ample work space and an area where grain and dates can be spread out to dry. Fresh animal fodder is con­served in the cooler, damper ground­ level store-rooms.

Sun dried mud is an ideal building material in zones of low humidity where there are wide temperature fluctuations between day and night. Exterior walls heat slowly during the day, but radiate interior warmth during chilly nights. By morning, the high-ceilinged rooms have fully cooled and are comfortable again despite the mounting midday heat.

Ait Ben Haddou is constructed mainly of monolithic walls of rammed earth-mud, straw, dung and gravel tamped into rectangular wooden shut­tering, and unbaked, handmade adobe bricks. The thick monolithic units are generally used for the lower levels and outer walls, the bricks for upper walls, stairways, partitions and the ever-pre­ sent surface ornamentation.

Foundation walls for some of the tighremt's twenty-metre towers are two meters thick,  tapering to just one brick's width at the top. In a land where plumb lines were unknown until recently , right angles were considered not worth striving for. Instead, the sloping look gives the entire kasr a feeling of vertical tension and momentum. Against the backdrop of the High Atlas, this upward sweep makes the village appear to levi­ tate from its hillside setting.

Because it lies in the Ounila river's flood plain, not far from its confluence with the Mellah, the village is bifurcated by running water. To the east is old Ait Ben Haddou, the village of mud brick and high walls; on the Ounila 's western bank is the new town, built of cinder block and concrete slab- cubical too  in its own modern way, but so much the poorer for it.

The new town looks as if it has been hastily erected to serve the needs of the busloads of tourists arriving on two-hour visits. As such, it serves a necessary pur­pose. One hesitates to think how the old village's increasingly delicate sociological and physical condition could withstand the tourist shock-not to mention that caused by the many Hollywood film crews which have worked here-if drink stands and postcard shops had not been set at a distance from the village proper.

Ait Ben Haddou’s ancient half still rests on shaky ground. Many of its homes have been abandoned by families who prefer the new town's piped water and electricity. Only six families remain today.

FACING THE FUTURE

In order to attract the old village's occu­pants back from the other side, a new organization, the Centre for the Conserva­tion and Rehabilitation of the Architec­tural Heritage in the Atlas and Sub-Atlas Zones has undertaken a project to rebuild Ait Ben Haddou 's mosque and involve the com­munity in long-range planning.

The village needs to offer a balanced, low-impact array of tourist services, but also to maintain its traditional agricultural base. The problem is whether, as the village leader puts it, the sheep stabled in his kasbah's lower enclosure are compatible with paying overnight guests upstairs. As for the already aban­doned housing, how can mixed-use stables, granaries and domestic quarters be "retro-fitted" with the physical facili­ties-electricity, plumbing, larger rooms-expected by both foreign tourists and Moroccan home-owners accustomed to more modern accommo­dation? This is the question that the Centre's architects and sociologists are now trying to answer.

When the Centre asked the new town's residents what improvements would be most likely to draw them back to their original homes , the mosque's repair was near the top of their list. And since the project is now near completion, time will tell if it will in itself be sufficient to spark a revitalization . But since the mosque is without question the village's architectural and spiritual centrepiece, it is fitting that it should be restored first.

Over the past few centuries Ait Ben Haddou has survived flooding , siege and drought. In the future it faces perhaps even more daunting challenges-heavy tourist traffic, agricultural obsolescence and physical abandonment. But there is still hope . Its designation by UNESCO as a World Heritage site has brought it to the attention of the wider world. And its townspeople have taken a stand to pro­tect it from reckless change.





 

Driving Camels from Sudan to Cairo on the Way of the Forty

Note- first published in Smithsonian Magazine, March 1987. The export camel trade to Egypt now follows the new tarmac road, on lorries, no longer on the hoof across the sand. I am still in touch with trail boss Khairallah, see Aramco World Magazine, March/April 2018..

Muhammad glanced uneasily from the dented, sooty teapot over to the four slack waterskins and back to the empty pot. Masud and Adam followed his eyes and understood what worried him: there was neither water to boil our asida, a meal of millet flour and dried okra, nor, more important to the camel drovers, to brew our evening tea. For the Kababish Arabs on a 40-day camel drive from the Sudan's Kordofan Province north to Egypt, heavily sugared tea is the sole reward at the end of a 15-hour day in the sa ddle. To pass the night with out a glass of this warming fuel is to feel the desert's cold and thirst all the way to the bone.

A friend and I were accompanying these three drov­ ers, their trail boss Khairallah and a herd of 109 cam­ els on the 1,000-mile drive to the camel market in Cairo (see map , page 122). We'd been invited to join them by the owner of the herd and one of Kordofan's leading camel merchants, Bashir Abu Jayib, in order to document a way of life much like that of the Old West's cattle drovers as they rode the Chisholm Trail. Our route would take us from the heart of the camel­ breeding grasslands in the central Sudan, northeast through the desert along the dry Wadi al-Milk, along the Nile through southern Nubia and finally  again into the open desert to skirt Lake Nasser, bringing us to the village of Bimban, north of Aswan.

A dancing Pygmy as a gift

The Kababish call this overland route the Darb al­ arbain, literally the Way of the Forty, for the journey's average number of days. Part of the route has been in use since prehistoric times and was first documented during· Egypt's Old Kingdom when the emissary Har­kouf, sent by the boy Pharaoh Pepi II,  returned  this way from his exploration of the land of Pun  t, bringing a dancing Pygmy as a gift to his master. When riverine unrest disrupted trade links,  a  western  desert  route was established following a string of isolated wells running north through Egypt's Kharja oasis to Asyut. This more secretive route is still sometimes used by camel-riding runners of contraband.

To our dismay, night had fallen before we reached Umm Kharwa, our first watering place since begin­ning the drive ten days earlier at al-Nahud (the female breasts), named for two enormous sand dunes to the east of the village. Earlier this morning Khairallah had ridden ahead to Umm Kharwa to make arrangements with watering agents for our camels' thirsty arrival, which we had hoped wo ld be before dark. Now with our waterskins empty, the drovers were upset by the prospect of camping with neither food nor tea after having driven the herd all day through the hot and dusty Hamar territory.

When all the camels were hobbled, a nightly task taking the men only 20 minutes even in pitch dark, Muhammad rode to Umm Kharwa for water . Four hours later, well past midnight, he returned and the teapot was put on to boil. We dr-ank tea until breaking camp at dawn and by midmorning had entered Umm Kharwa's camel-packed well flats.

The camel trade from the Sudan to Egypt is thriving and promises to grow despite Egypt's increasing dependence on subsidized frozen-food imports distrib­uted through government fair-price shops . In contrast to  the  crowded  and  under-stocked government stores, clean and convenient  neighborhood butchers sell the freshly slaughtered camel meat at just above the price of government-subsidized frozen chicken and lamb. Here the customer can freely inspect the meat, pick­ing and choosing from one slab to the next.

Each year, some 50,000 head of camels are driven north along the Darb al-arbain. Sudanese merchants like Bashir Abu Jayib and their purchasing agents throughout Kordofan Province buy camels from Kabbashi breeders at local markets and consolidate them into herds of up to 200 head. Transfer agents in Dongola, the halfway point on the Sudanese Nile, repro­vision the drovers with essentials-tea, sugar and chew­ing tobacco. At the village of Bimban other agents sell off part of the herd for the market in Upper Egypt and provide onward transport to Cairo for the rest. 

Camels three or more years old are driven north. The younger ones are prized for their succulent veal. If fed supplementary grain along the route, they prove strong on the march and command the best prices in Egypt. Older full-grown camels, five to ten years in age, are bought for $350 to $500 in Kordofan and are sold for twice that in Egypt. While a few are used as draft animals , most are bought for slaughter.

Because of the female camels' high local value as breeding stock, few are taken on the drive. In our herd there were only ten, all to be sold to Egyptian breeders. Cow camels also pose special problems: their presence in a herd of bulls causes stampedes and duels.

The morning of our departure from al-Nahud, Abu Jayib's purchasing agent Sadiq Abd al-Wahab had slaughtered and roasted a lamb as a token of karama, or esteem, on the trail. The drovers feasted on entrails and ribs before packing the hindquarters and gather­ ing up the herd. All the camels had been freshly wa­ tered, grazed and branded on the left side of the neck with Abu J ayib's trail number.

As we left behind al-Nahud's sand dunes, passing camel riders saluted the drovers and wished them safety in the desert. When standing face-to-face, the Kababish greet one another in an elegant ceremony of gentle handshakes followed by simultaneous palm strokes over the other's left shoulder , all the while whispering Islamic salutations . When mounted, they invite each other to dismount and drink tea. Indeed, not more than two hours after leaving al-Nahud, we dismounted to share a pot with a cousin of Khairallah.

Failed rains during several previous years had parched the northern grasslands where the Kababish lived and forced much of their breeding, grazing and marketing activities south to the region of the Hamar people, a tribe of melon, millet and peanut cultivators. (More recently, with improved rainfall, the tribe has begun moving back into its  traditional  homeland.) For ten days we traversed this land of savanna  grass and baobab trees, whose stout trunks are used as remarkable above-ground cisterns. After the  two  or three rainfalls of late summer collect in the broad depressions at the base of each tree, the water is scooped with leather buckets into a hole high  in  the  trunk.  This living reservoir provides the village with its sole water supply during the 11 month dry period.

For the first days of the drive in Hamar country we made excruciatingly slow progress, allowing the  herd to graze freely while on the move and making count­ less tea stops, where the camels foraged unattended.  Reherding them was difficult work in the sometimes dense underbrush and among the acacia trees, whose long green thorns they preferred to the dry grasses. Before setting off again they had to be driven single file past Khairallah, who counted each one with  a  lazy drop of the hand.

The men would then take up their customary places around the herd, analogous to the point and drag posi­ tions of cattle drovers of the American West. Masud and Muhammad rode ja’ab at the herd's rear, urging the camels from behind and picking up strays. Adam rode makhruja at the left front and Khairallah rode maddaja at the right front. As camels tend to drift to the right when moving together , the maddaja, with a slight flick of a whip, controls the herd's direction. This place is always reserved for the trail boss or khabir, meaning expert. Khairallah's verbal com­mands to the ja’abs determined our driving speed. At a fast pace the air was filled with the drovers' cries of Hut, Onk, Heh and Birah (Easy does it)-the  four notes of the Kabbashi chorale.

Umm Kharwa was to be our only plentiful water before we reached the Nile in another 15 days. Most herds on their way north pass through this dusty vil­ lage, whose economy depends on the migratory-live­ stock watering business. The owner of a well, the watering agent, and the water drawers split the $3 fee for each 25-foot-diameter mud trough that  is  filled. The deep-voiced bellows and growls of thirsty camels, mixed with the lowing of cattle and braying of don­ keys, produced an eerie welcome as we approached from the distance. Drawing closer, we heard the softly hummed work songs of the water  drawers,  described by one ethnomusicologist as being  similar  to  the throat songs of the Inuit.

The desert widened to both horizons

Upon leaving Umm Kharwa and entering the Ka­babish territory, the thorn trees and grasses thinned and the desert widened to both horizons. A steady north wind drove fine sand into our faces-and at meal­ times into our millet paste and tea. The logic of the Islamic ablution before prayer-cleansing ears, nostrils and mouth-became clear after several days and nights in the Umrn Duhayr, Mother of Little Eternity, as the Kababish call their desert when the wind is strong.

The Wadi al-Milk , a dry narrow riverbed with low trees and thistles that cuts diagonally across the desert, appeared three days beyond Umm Kharwa. We  kept the wadi to our left for the next ten days,  staying  a mile or so out in the desert in order both to avoid am­bushes laid by camel thieves and to push the herd at its fastest pace across flat, empty ground. Every few days Masud was sent into the wadi to fill our waterskins at isolated wells. Being newly tanned, the skins made the salty water as black as our tea.

This was the part of our route where we would cover up to 45 miles during each day and half-night of travel. From dawn until many hours past dark, when Canis Major had already rotated 180 degrees since dusk, the camels crossed this enormous sealess beach , leaving their droppings and cloven prints in the wind-rippled sand. The only break in the monotonous view was an occasional outcropping of rock or a white honeymoon tent erected at the edge of the wadi. These tribal "wed­ ding announcements" always brought forth rowdy talk and speculation from the drovers, who spend most of the year away from their families.

After the dusk prayer at a 15-minute rest stop, when all the camels would urinate in unison, we remounted and watched the desert's reddish hues, only fully ap­ parent seconds before sunrise and after sunset, fade into darkness. Navigating by night was easy for Khairallah in the open desert by "keeping the North Star on the left cheek." I was always amazed the next morning, after hours of a moonless night ride, to find our camp alongside the tracks of previous drives. Old campsites that we might pass at midday, with three blackened fire stones , dung piles and perfectly aligned sand nests made by camels sleeping nose leeward, evoked the same nostalgia for tea and fellowship cele­ brated by Bedouin poets in pre-Islamic odes.

During the precious hour when we stopped at noon the drovers were never at rest. Camel chores, such as patching sore foot pads, refitting saddlebags and fetching wandering camels, occupied every minute. Mu­hammad stayed busy with the fire, teapot and millet paste, whose simple recipe of flour and water required constant stirring with a heavy stick. After the paste was mixed and hand-patted into a dry round lump, the sauce was made from dried okra, tomato and chili powder. The informal Kabbashi word for this thrice-a­ day meal, lukhma, is best conveyed in English as grub.

On the 17th day, while waiting for Khairallah to re­ turn from his search for a camel separated from the herd during a night drive, we brought the camels into the wadi at Idd Ahmad, a small outpost of settled Kabbashi goatherds. A band of locals met us at the wells and filled the mud watering troughs. Though shallow, the wells needed constant dredging and shoring up from the inside with tree branches. For every half-bucket of water, out came two buckets of sand. Upon the empty-handed arrival of Khairallah, who had ridden all night in his search, we prepared tea.

The goatherds, conscious of their un-glamorous life compared with that of their camel-driving tribesmen, were eager for us to stay and tell stories. So too was Billa Ali al-Qurayn  (Little  Horned  One).  A  resident of Idd Ahmad, he was reputed to be  a  notorious  camel thief of the  wadi. He had met us at the well with a shifty greeting and a complicated story  concerning the camel he now rode. At one time it had belonged to one Osman Billi, was then bought by Abu Jayib, then lost on a night drive and recently found by Billa Ali in the wadi. He demanded a $50 reward from Khairallah before handing it over.

Billa Ali's elegant attire-clean white riding tunic and turban, silk vest, silver earring, tooled leather car­ tridge belt and saddle, and conspicuous carbine-was in vivid and suspicious contrast to our dirty and rag­ ged clothing. Even more unusual about this character was that after sharing our meal, sleeping by our fire and pocketing the reward, he shouldered his camel gear and carbine and walked off across the sand to no discernible destination. Khairallah later  explained that Billa Ali's modus operandi was to demand reward money for camels that he himself had stolen. Because the carbine was the only law within many days' ride, an unarmed drover had no choice but to meet his terms.

Two species of carrion-eating birds followed our herds like seagulls over a fishing boat; when we broke camp they watched for the occasional exhausted camel that could not regain its feet and had to be left behind with its throat slit-a mercy killing. The Kababish called these birds Urnrn Rakhrn Allah and Abu Jurn­ juma, Mother of the Vulture of God and Father of the Skull. The trail was littered with sun-bleached camel skeletons; often the gleaming bones, some carefully stacked, served as trail cairns. Given our chronic hun­ger, it seemed strange to me that the Kababish con­sidered the meat of camels that died of trail fatigue too "tired" to be eaten.

Still days before the promise of the Nile, we marked our progress in passing barren mountains with such names as Father of the Ax and Daughter of the Mother of the Sea. They appeared on the horizon at dawn, stood beside our midday camp and disappeared be­hind in the dusk light. Rare thorn trees st nding alone made much-appreciated campsites in spite of the hun­dreds of spotted ticks, also enjoying the shade, that would swarm up our legs. Luckily, these ticks had been spoiled by camel blood and had n.o taste for humans. The night before we were to reach the Nile, a baby camel was born. The next morning it lay beside its mother with kinked, white curls glistening wet in the sunrise, too weak to rise to its feet. ,ve would have had to abandon it had not a donkey rider come upon us on his way to a Nile village and accepted the foal as a gift. He hefted it behind the saddle and went happily on his way. Although eager to reach the Nile ourselves, we had to delay our arrival until mid-morning in order for the thirst -weakened but fickle camels to be more disposed to drink in great quantities.

We saw the Nile's thin green sleeve

Our first indication that the Nile  was near,  several days before, had been the cloud masses in the north­ east of a normally empty sky. Today, more tangible evi­dence was a loosely strung telegraph line that we could barely pass under. Coming over a dune, we saw the Nile's thin green sleeve of date palms, winter wheat, beans and water grasses. Drovers and camels alike scrambled for the riverbank and a long-awaited drink. While Muhammad brewed tea from Nile water, we unloaded the riding camels,  watching  from high  on the steep bank the frenetic watering scene below: cam­els snorting, pawing, slurping  and  finally just staring at their own reflections. Local farmers left their fields to sit with us and admire the herd that was now half­ way to market. Our walking bank account of $50,000 would soon be doubled in value.

After a second pot of tea, a profligacy unknown in the desert, we resaddled and set out due north, staying well into the sands but within view of the river. It became our game to count palms, minarets and curls of smoke from a cook fire- anything to remind us of the food, drink and rest nearly within reach. But confined to the camel on the desert fringe, with the unexplored pleasures of riverine life now beckoning, and being passed by honking trucks on their way to Dongola, I soon tired of the unbearably slow pace of what mo­mentarily seemed an anachronistic, romantic stunt.

On our 25th day, Dongola promised to fulfill our desert-driven expectations of urban reward. The day was spent squatting, sitting and reclining  on the floor of the market stall belonging to al-Amiri Yasin, Abu Jayib's agent, smoking and recounting  tales of  Billa Ali and the wadi for all the assembled merchants. The trail boss is a celebrity for anyone who must earn a sedentary living measuring out dates, rice and beans. Dongola is an agricultural town and the political and  cultural  cap_ital   of  Sudanese   Nubia,  a  foreign world to the Kababish of the desert.Unused to bounti­ful supplies of fresh fruit, water jars on every corner, and unveiled women transacting business, Khairallah barely ventured out of the stall's doorway and cared to taste not one mango , orange or banana. Instead, after purchasing dried chewing tobacco and our resupply of sugar, tea and millet flour, he  hired  a Toyota to drive us back to the camels waiting on the edge of town. He seemed to have no regrets about leaving this land of plenty with so little to remember of the visit.

The next several days offered dwindling succor to our tired backsides. Signs of modernity  thinned  and the electric line from Dongola terminated , darkening our night rides once again. The truck route had now crossed the river, so we were left to ourselves and the isolated Nubian villages on the west bank. We slowed the pace to feed the camels on water grass and the rub­ble of harvested beanfields. It was possible to walk most of the day beside the river on the firm bank and to scavenge for remains of last year's date crop. The fruit of the twin-crowned doom palm, a large nut with a rock-hard graham-cracker crust, provided the mind­ less diversion of an all-day sucker.

After the fifth day of riding past verdant fields, mud villages ablaze with brightly painted doorways, and the pharaonic temple of Sulb, we topped off our water­skins north of Dal Cataract, near where the Nile be­ gins to back up from Lake Nasser, in preparation for the last leg of our journey. This was to be a forced march parallel to the lake but far enough into the des­ert to avoid contact with the over-officious and bribe­-hungry border authorities. Our encounter with a date­ wine-drunk officer of Hamid village had already cost us one day and 25 Sudanese pounds for the infraction of herding "underdocumented" camels.

One day just before our noon break we came upon three large herds being driven from Darfur Province, west of Kordofan. The trail bosses brought their cam­ els to the ground with the customary sh-sh-sh com­mand of the far west. Khairallah kh-kh-khed his camels Kordofani style and greeted the strangers.After swapping their news-the headline story was about an armed night attack by thieves in the wadi-the Dar­ furis invited us to share the meat of a crippled she­ camel they were about to slaughter.

The skin was laid open like a picnic cloth

We arrived at the scene just in time to see the squat­ting camel pinned to the ground with its neck pulled out taut by the rein, and the knife make a 180-degree slash on its under side. The body strained backward, the eyes bulged and blood sprayed over the sand for yards. When the heart had pumped the body nearly dry, the skin was laid open on either side like a picnic cloth and four men undressed the corpse with flashing blades. The ring of onlookers shouted instructions, and fin ally such choice parts as the hump fat, chest call us, hoof jelly and liver emerged from the shrunken carcass. Each of us had a share of the liver and hump, still hot and raw.

Our drovers collected their quarter-side of camel and returned to the herd. We ate a hurried meal of millet paste before setting off on what seemed like the longest, hottest, most fatiguing afternoon march of the trip. We stopped only for the sunset prayer and continued until after midnight. I was  too exhausted to stay awake at the fire for the meal to be prepared, but my sleep was interrupted throughout the night by movement at the fire and much laughter. I could even make out the animated whistle and chatter of the gen­ erally stone-silent Muhammad. The earliest light re­vealed the cause of my insomnia. All night the drovers had chopped the camel meat into thin strips and hung them to wind-dry on rope slung between saddles. The hundreds of bits of darkening red meat were to be our movable and slowly putrefying feast for the last seven days of the journey.

After several uneventful days, again riding very la te, we watched the bright glows of, first, the Aswan Dam and then the city proper approach and pass behind. We crossed an asphalt road, frightening the camels as we climbed steeply up and over its embankment in the midst of the sand flat. There were other finish lines to cross the next morning-electric lines, more roads, rows of windblown garbage- before seeing the Nile Valley for the second time since leaving al-Nahud.

The mood, however, was much different from our arrival on the Sudanese Nile near Khaliwa 20 days be­fore. The drovers sensed they were in strange sur­roundings, perhaps at a disadvantage at the hands of Egyptian hard bargaining and double-ta lk. Their status as men of the desert was not esteemed here. Still a mile from the village of Bimban, we were met by four donkey-riding merchants who swarmed over the herd with barely a word of greeting, eager to mark and reserve camels for later purchase. They regarded our mounts only as business opportunities and not as the beasts of God-favored beauty and strength that they were to the Kababish . The fragile spell of the desert was completely broken now.

Abu Jayib's transfer agent, Ahmad Hassan Abd al­ Majid, met us at his stable in Bimban with a large tray of food, which the camel buyers managed to crowd around first and nearly keep us from altogether. The drovers were fully occupied with the camels, keeping them herded, carrying straw from Hassan's stable and cutting out the ones for local sale. Khairallah accepted a Cleopatra-brand cigarette and withdrew from the clamor. Merchants in pursuit with offers to buy his saddle, knife or camel were met with the otherworldly expression of one just awakened from a long sleep.

At Bimban, Abu Jayib 's camels were fed, watered and, because the seasonal price was strong, many were so ld for the same price they would ordinarily  bring only in Cairo. After much shouting between agents, merchants and drovers, 60 of the 109 in our herd were sold . The remainder were driven two days north  to Esna and loaded onto trucks bound for Cairo.

Five hundred miles and 24 hours later, the trucks rumbled into Egypt's principal livestock market. The Cairo camel market , near lmbaba across the railroad tracks on the city's west bank, comes to life every day well before dawn. More than camels trade hands here, as one can find horses, donkeys, water buffalo, goats, sheep , animal harnesses and clothing in any one of the many mud-walled enclosures. Camels take center stage, however, the paddocks filling throughout the morning with herds recently arrived from the drive, their drovers, white-robed Sudanese merchants like Abu Jayib and his son Mahdi, Samsonite-carrying Egyptian meat-broker millionaires and their bagmen, bookkeepers and fallahin - all revolving around the kingpin of this kinetic panoply: the camel market's own King Solomon, Muhammad Abd al-Aziz .

Holding court from behind sunglasses

 This portly gentleman, always sea ted on the wide reviewing bench in the middle of the paddock , sur­rounded by eager buyers and sellers, acts as auctioneer, price fixer and deal guarantor wrapped into one. His grandfather emigrated from Saudi Arabia at the turn of the century with an acutely discriminating sense of camel flesh and founded this market. The Abd al-Aziz family quickly established itself as the indispensable trade link between the Sudan and Egypt, the desert and the metropolis, the herder and the wholesaler. Now attended by his many offspring, one of whom will eventually be named heir to his throne, Muhammad holds court from behind sunglasses and under a dis­tinctly folded turban.

Sales are conducted one-on-one-one buyer, one seller and one camel at a time. Muhammad eyeballs the camel cut from the herd, mentally weighing its dressed meat, and now sets a fair price containing a small margin for his commission. His authority is usually sufficient to settle any differences, but if either buyer or seller cannot accept the price they both must withdraw and are replaced by another willing pair. Each sale is recorded in a huge ledger and no money can change hands until Muhammad assents.

The Kabbashi drovers remained at the camel mar­ket until all of their herds were sold off, perhaps up to two weeks. Even on the outskirts of a city of ten mil­lion , Africa's largest, they continued to fill teapots from waterskins and boil millet flour over an open fire. With their wages the y made purchases for friends and family in Kordofan, visited the mosques of  al-Azhar and Sayyidna al-Hussayn in the old city,  and  settled old debts among their fellow tribesmen. Many other groups of drovers were at the market at the same time, and most were acquaintances, friends or relatives  from home villages. The spirit in the open-air drovers' dormitories was similar to that of the summer camps at their tribal wells; this was a time to reaffirm the bonds between lineages and clans. Only when all of the camels from our herd had been sold did the drovers prepare to depart for Kordofan.

Each proudly wore a newly purchased garment; each carried at least a token of the metropolis. They loaded wooden saddles and burlap sacks stuffed with cooking pots and the beloved teakettle  onto  the Toyota  that would take  them  to  Cairo's  main railroad   station. Their return  would  be  to  Aswan  by train,  thence across Lake Nasser to Wadi Halfa by steamer, on to Omdurman by  rail  and ,  finally,  to  Umm Badr  by lorry. The   entire journey  would  take  more  than  a week, one day for every six of the camel drive north. Joined by another group of drovers also homeward bound , they formed a circle in the paddock and, with arms outstretched and palms open, recited a rhythmic prayer for safety while traveling. With solemn hand­shakes and words of farewell,  the  drovers  left us and the Cairo market. In several months, before the blast­ing heat of the Saharan summer would end the drive season, they promised to be back with another herd. Khairallah's easy laugh as he asked us to accompany another drive almost  made  me  forget  the still-fresh body aches and hunger pangs of the· Way of the Forty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Masters of Mugham

When Nashville rolled out the welcome mat for the Rolling Stones, did that say more about where rock and roll is headed or where country and western is coming from? If the Three Tenors represent a tradition of the timeless and true, does singing in football stadiums somehow drag their music off its pedestal? And for Pete's sake, why are rocker Elvis Costello and crooner Tony Bennett sharing the same microphone?

Similar questions could be asked about mugham, a traditional, ageless music of  the Middle East once played in the royal courts of Persia and the Ottoman Empire, an art music beloved by knowing connoisseurs that has changed little in hundreds of years.

Until now. The song lyrics of mugham are the intricately rhymed ghazal of classical poets, and its 70-odd scales, also called mughams, are the cousins of South Asia's ragas.

Yet upon reaching its own 21st­ century crossroads, some musicians have chosen to dabble in western forms like jazz, rock and opera. Conservatives and progressives debate which way this music should be played. And nowhere is this conversa­tion more fraught with cultural meaning than in the Republic of Azerbaijan, the Caspian oil patch where all petroleum-importing eyes now turn as the Persian Gulf becomes increasingly unstable.

The Republic of Azerbaijan, whose Azeri-Turkish culture spreads south into northwestern Iran has, since before Alexander the Great's visit in 333 B.C., been a crossroads of invad­ing and retreating nations. And, hard up against the soaring Caucasus Mountains, Azerbaijan is a crossroads with many snowbound hiding places, where cultural tradition can remain untouched for centuries.

Jahangir Selimkhanov, a musicologist and composer of new music in the tradition of Pierre Boulez and Karl Heinz Stockhausen, heads the Soros Cultural Foundation in Baku, an organization whose function is to expand the various east-west meeting places available to the post-Soviet generation. Says Jahangir, "mugham has been under glass for too long. The Soviet cultural policy ignored it, and so it stayed in the shadows, where itsurvived but never moved forward. I see it as the music of my grand fathers. "

But mugham in its pure, unadulter­ated, timeless sense-indeed, all the qualities that make it hopelessly out of date in the new petro-fueled Baku of chiming cell phone s and blaring disco hits-can take a listener to a level of contemplation, spirituality and ecstasy th at its watered down versions can only dream of.

And, based on a recent visit to Azerbaijan, Jahangir is wrong about it being merely a music for grandfathers. Among Azeris, mugham is alive and well, both in its pure form handed down from master teacher to appren­tice student, and in its hyphenated forms as sampled, borrowed and even kitschified by Azeri musicians playing with their western ears wide open.

Elvis Costello and Tony Bennett, meet Arif Babayev.

Arif Babayev is a fading star of mugham opera, a hybrid genre encour­ aged by Soviet culture commissars to merge the high  tradition s of Mussorgski and Tchaikovsky with what they wrongly considered to be the simple folk music-not the real "classi­cal" music-of the Caucasus, just as Rimsky-Korsakov had done with "Sheherazade." While the plots and settings came from such Azeri epics as those written by the 16th-century poet Fuzuli- who, ironically, lived  in Baghdad and Mosul all his life- the music and orchestration is mostly Western  except for a few token arias and accompaniments using mugham scales and the kemanche, a spike fiddle, and tar, an hourglass-bodied long­ necked lute.

Arif now teaches at the Baku Music Academy, and most of his student s aspire to careers in the relatively well­ paid world of mugham opera, rather than to sing the pure mugham in itinerant wedding ensembles that, given the shrinking paying audience for such music, end up playing mostly for their own enjoyment and that of their lucky friends.

During one Friday afternoon master class, five students seated in child-size desks faced their well-groomed silver-haired and mustachioed 60-year­ old teacher, Arif. His voice was weak­ened by age and a cold he caught on his recent pilgrimage to Mecca. The grand piano in the corner is irrelevant for this music, its western tuning rendered meaningless before mugham's eastern modal system. A hot plate brewing Azerbaijan's pot of tea offered the only heat in this darkening winter's day.

Arif looked over his class- Nazakat Tymurova, the class's only woman and Arif's protegee with a career already in motion ; ]avid Abdullayev, a burly 30- year-old with a beard in the making; Kazem Behineh, an  Iranian-Azeri refugee hoping to open a music school for fellow exiles in Copenhagen; Islam Muhammadov, a 20-year-old freshman with buzz-cut red hair, gold teeth and a blue suit; and special guest Kasemfar Abbasov, Arif 's past prize student who now directs his own mugham school. The tar and kemanche accompanists took their seats facing the students, who nervously cleared their throats and thumbed the pages of  ghazals  of Nizami, Fuzuli and the  other  lodestars of the Azeri lyric.

]avid was first to take up the tambou­ rine, holding it as a resonator to his cheek as he began a couplet by Fuzuli known by its first line- ''Ashiyani murgi dil zulfi parishaniindadir." In your hair I will build a lovely nest. And, as with all ghazals, the last couplet contained a direct invocation of the poet's name, so ]avid ended with a tribute, "O Fuzuli!"

Arif rocked his head back and forth, his fingers laced together and his eyes closed. "Sing at a higher volume, one that suits your age, otherwise you sound like my grandmother." ]avid no sooner began anew than Arif slammed his hand on the desk. "If you don't sing at the proper pitch you won't get a grade in this class." Arif demonstrated with a quick burst of song.

Nazakat began immediately in tahrir, rapidly shifting her voice between nose and chest to create a pitch-perfect warbling sound. A mugham singer's greatest success is to be mistaken for a nightingale.

Arif shouted, "Good. More. Good. Louder." He joined her in duet and ended with a teacher's warning. "The rhythm of this mugham is the most difficult in all the repertoire- but you still don't sing it as I showed you before."

He sipped his tea, unwrapped and bit into a hard candy, an Azeri substi­tute for stirring in sugar, and nodded his head at the car player's improvised interlude.

"Don't sing as well as you want, sing as well as I want." He demonstrated again, looking deeply at Nazakat as his voice fluttered dead-on between two notes.

Nazakat repeated sotto voce after him , leaning forward to concentrate on his falsetto playback. "Don't come in so heavy after taking a breath ," he warned. "It must be a seamless return to the lyric. Don't add something  that is not there. Sing it as it is, not like crying. Take your time."

She shook her head. "I can't sing this part well."

''I'll help you," he says.

She looked at the floor, singing to herself. I’m drawing it out  too much," she said in dismay. "That's why I'm missing the measures." Her drop earrings bobbed as her head rose and fell with frustration.

Arif turned to Islam,  who  gripped the tambourine like the steering wheel of an overburdened truck descending a steep mountain road. He sang care­fully, as if in slow motion, with a heavy tentativeness, correcting the pronuncia­tion of a single word.

Islam continued briefly until Arif suddenly clapped out the error in his place of attack in the last lyric. "You're singing like a girl," he shouted. "Why do you pause between verses? Is that Gorbachev's accent I hear, or a Lesghi's?" referring  to a Caucasus ethnic type commonly seen as country yokels.

An electronic tinkle of Nazakat's cell phone disrupted the class. She answered the call, which was from her father, and handed it to Arif.

"What's she doing here, you ask? Sometimes she wants to sing and sometimes she does not. I've finished with her today, so okay, yes, I'm sending her home to you." Nazakat took back the phone, put on her overcoat and left with an embarrassed smirk.

"Kazemfar, please sing for us," said Arif.

Kazemfar complained about the tar's poor tuning, but sang quickly through an entire ghazal, nodded to his teacher sheepishly, and. turned to leave. At the door he turned and said to the visitor, "My father has died, but I feel obliged to come here every week to see my other father." And to Arif, "Goodbye, teacher."

With that, the class ended. Teacher, father, mentor, and scold- Arif Babayev passes his technique co the next generation. The wheel turns full circle, his own voice failing as it gives new voice co others, just as in the words of 12th-century poet Nizami Ganjavi ....

Those poets rare who sang their songs

Grew old, departed, now sleep long.

I their executor; to their      

Sage legacy, the noble heir.

None more than I has made anew

Those ancient modes that men once knew.

Just how crossed up Azeri culture can be is evident in the contrast between Fuzuli and Nizami, a Persian-language poet who never left Azerbaijan and was called the "prisoner of Ganja," his hometown. Baku's main square is fronted by the Nizami Museum,  in which his poetic diwan is displayed in manuscript upon manuscript, but his words can be read by Azerbaijanis today only in translation.

That Baku is a less multi­ ethnic city today than 10 years ago is beyond dispute. The brutal Soviet suppression of the Azeri independence move­ment in January 1990, followed by the war with Armenia in the Karabakh region, which devastated 20 percent of Azeri soil, resulted  in a huge Russian and Armenian emigration. The golden age of Baku depicted in the early pages of ''Ali and Nino," the cross-cultural Azerbaijani love story set in the 1920s which became a best-selling novel in the United States in the 1970s now exists only in the theater.

One mugham opera that patches that golden age back together is "The Cloth Peddler," by Uzeyir Hajibeyov, an Azeri composer born in 1885 in Karabakh. Hajibeyov studied with Prokofiev in St. Petersburg and, although he became a Russian modernist, at heart he re main ed an Azeri sentimentalist. He single­ handedly established the genre of mugham opera. His grand classics, "Layla" and "Majnun," "Koroghlu" and "Mashade Ibad" come from the heights of Azeri literature.

"The Cloth Peddler" is lighter fare, an operetta of sorts which satirizes the clash of old Azeri tradition s with new ideas introduced in Baku during the first oil boom at the turn of the 20th century when such industrialists as Rockefeller, Nobel and Krupp came to town and found donkeys, turbans and arranged marriages. Its first production in 20 years, staged in Baku's ornately chandeliered State Theater, was eagerly awaited by the well-heeled beneficiaries of Baku's second boom.

The opera follows the comic twists an d turns of Asker and Gulchora, the former a Westernized oil baron who scorns the customary prohibition against meeting one's bride before the wedding day, the latter a beautiful maiden whose tradition-bound father, Sultan Bey, refuses to let her out of the house. Asker dresses himself as a lowly peddler to gain ent rance to Gulchora's room , where she immediately falls in love with the humble character of the disguise and not the cocky capitalist who wears it.

An hour before curtain time, the director, Hafiz Guliev, hurried from the costume department to the stage. His crew was still moving props and setting up lights. Guliev urged them on as he dashed to the makeup room . There he found his principal singer, Azer Zaynatov, who was playing the role of Asker, put tin g the finishing touches on his two costumes, a waistcoat and cravat for the oilman, and a high-buttoned tunic and cummerbund for the peddler. With both , he sported the same Persian lamb hat, the Azeri national symbol.

''Azerbaijanis love this opera because they see a little bit of themselves in both sides of the story," said Guliev. The alternating set design said it all- a cafe table, rocking chair and door bell in Asker's house; fountains, carpets, and pointed arches in the home of Sultan Bey.

As curtain time approached, Zaynatov warmed up his strong tenor voice by running up and down a Western scale. He was trained in Venice and his accents were heavy with Italian, his second language. Next to him one of Arif's former students trilled the contrasting scale of mugham, which she would sing in the role of Gulchora's servant. A troupe of young ballerinas chattered away in Russian, waiting for their cue in the overture. Regardless of the oriental setting, the original convention of mugham opera, then as now, required incidental notes of "high culture." T he painted backdrop for all this was the skyline of the old city showing the medieval quarter and the towers of the shah's palace.          ·

The theater was filling up with patrons gaudily dressed and conspicu­ously bejeweled. As always, the late­ comers were accessorized with cell phones. Many who came to  the performance were perhaps the grand­children of oil barons like Asker and those who came to see  opening  night of "The Cloth Peddler" in  1913,  the year Stravinsky's "Rite of Spring" also  premiered.  So even with its premiere, this mugham opera was considered a quaint throwback by westernized Bakuvites. After this modern-day performance , some of the disco-ready younger patrons might move on to a nightclub where the latest hit is "Sari Galin," a tired mugham folk tune, whose languid introduction on the kemanche leads into ... raunchy French rap lyrics declaimed against a pounding techno beat.

 


 

Children of Sanchez, Revisited

Note- Published in Grassroots Development, the bimonthly journal of the Inter-American Foundation, 1988. This article launched my 2 year prospective oral history of community activism in the colonia Dario Martinez (here given the pseudonym Nueva Casa Blanca), “No One Elected Me, I Just Stood Up” (see preceding post)

THE CHILDREN OF SANCHEZ REVISITED

Mexico City [AP] - Santos Hernandez, patriarch of the family described in Oscar Lewis's best-selling The Children of Sanchez, died when he was struck by a car while on his way to work. He was thought to be almost 90.

-   January 5, 1987

Caution! Traffic accidents can be avoided. Afterwards, nothing is the same.

-    Road sign on Avenida Zaragosa on the way to Valle de Chalco

 

With the death last year of Santos Hernandez, also known as Jesus Sanchez , a symbolic if not mythic figure in postwar Mexico has passed away Born in a small village in the state of Veracruz in 1910 - the year that marked the beginning of the Mexican Revolution - it is not surprising that the press should barely notice his demise.

"Jesus was brought up in a Mexico without cars, movies, radios, or TV,  without free universal education, without free elections, and without the hope of upward mobility and the possibility of getting rich quick;' wrote Oscar Lewis in the introduction to The Children of Sanchez, published in 1961. " He was raised in the tradition of authoritarianism , with its emphasis upon  knowing  one's  place,  hard work, and self-abnegation."

For many in the United States, Oscar Lewis's story of the Sanchez family brought Mexico and the Mexican people vividly alive for the first time. Lewis's use of first­ person oral histories to present a unsentimental account of urban Mexican poverty was unprecedented in popular anthropological literature. Indeed, issues such as whether Lewis's portrayal of the Sanchez family was distorted by his perceptions as a white, middle-class, well-educated anthropologist are debated even today - several decades later. At the heart of that debate is Lewis's interpretation of what has become widely known as "the culture of poverty."

Based on interviews he conducted in the 1950s, Lewis concluded that the grinding poverty of the Sanchez family and of others like it-a daily reality for people in what is now often called the "informal sector" - cannot be defined only as a state of economic deprivation, disorganization, or the lack of some specific thing . It is "positive in that it has a structure, a rationale, and a defense mechanism without which the poor could hardly carry on."

According to Lewis, the culture of poverty is a persistent condition, a remarkably stable way of life that is passed down from generation to generation along family lines. Unemployment and underemployment, low wages, unskilled occupations, child labor, absence of savings and shortage of cash, lack of food reserves, borrowing from local moneylenders at usurious rates of interest, and spontaneous informal credit devices all characterize this constant struggle for survival.

The question may be asked whether Jesus Sanchez, the passive paterfamilias living in a one-room inner city slum tenement, or vecindad, remains an archetypal figure in today's Mexico. Or does the current plethora of neighborhood organizations, particularly in the aftermath of the 1985 earthquake , signify a new era for the poor? This wave of grassroots activism contrasts strikingly with Lewis 's description of the culture of poverty, which was typified by family insularity and a lack of trust in government officials and others in high places that extended even to the Church.

Indeed, if Lewis were alive to choose a family that epitomized Mexico City's poor today, he might not look again in the neighborhoods in the center of the city. The sociological phenomenon that would most likely capture his attention is not the migration from the countryside to the city proper, which typified the 1950s, but rather the massive growth of newly settled colonias, or shantytowns, at the margins of the city. Recent arrivals there are not absorbed into long-existing urban environments, but rather join the urbanization process from the very beginning, and thus directly influence - knowingly  or not -  the future of  their community.

In the Valle de Chalco, beyond the eastern rim of the city between the colonial towns of Ayotla, Chalco, and Ixtapaluca, Lewis would find thousands of hectares of ejido land - the communal farmland held by the government and leased out to landless peasants  after  the  Revolution.  Technically, holders of ejido land, or ejidatarios, are prohibited from selling it, in part to protect the land from speculation and to preserve its agricultural capacity for future generations. In fact, however, thousands of hectares have been sold illegally, and these once-productive fields now support a population estimated to be in the hundreds of thousands.

Lewis would undoubtedly be surprised to find that many of the residents, or colonos, are newly arrived not from rural areas, as was Jesus Sanchez , but from the more urbanized areas of central Mexico City itself-most of them "rent fugitives" escaping inflationary housing costs. What might surprise him even more, however, is the degree of community activism found in at least one of Chalco's colonias . While the "Nueva Casa Blanca" (a pseudonym borrowed from the original Casa Blanca tenement brought to life in Lewis 's book) chosen for this article is perhaps less typical than other settlements, it may be just slightly ahead of its time. The colonos' activism is expressed inwardly through a commitment to self-help solutions. It is expressed outwardly through well-organized pressure on state and municipal governments, exemplified by a recent demonstration at the state capital of Toluca when some 60 residents of Nueva Casa Blanca joined groups from other colonias to lobby for schools, electricity, a water system, and sewers.

 

"Many of the traits of the subculture of poverty can be viewed as attempts at local solutions for problems not met by existing institutions because people are not eligible for them, cannot afford them, or are suspicious of them."

- Oscar Lewis, Introduction The Children of Sanchez

 

"Prompt payment for our teachers." "Fixed prices for a barrel of water." "Repair our streets."

"Total electrification."

"Valle del Chalco - an organized community. We want electricity, water, health posts, schools for our children. We call on competent authorities for help."

- Signs carried by residents of Nueva Casa Blanca at Toluca demonstration, August 28, 1987

 

Nueva Casa Blanca has some 2,000 building lots. About half of them are occupied, most by unregistered owners who bought them directly from ejidatarios or speculators, but there are some renters as well. Where the colonia begins and others end is not immediately obvious, sandwiched as it is between several neighboring settlements. Only its northern boundary is distinctly marked - by a large sewage canal spanned by two rickety bridges.

Like Jesus Sanchez 's inner-city vecindad, Nueva Casa Blanca is a self-contained community It has three pharmacies, where prices  are generally  twice  those  in  the city proper; a dry goods store; a beauty school, which is now closed; and many walk­ up windows in private homes where soft drinks, cigarettes, and  other  sundries are sold. In addition, there is a central market with one stand each for meat, produce, canned goods, and used records. And of greater significance to this article, the community also boasts a primary school  currrently  under  construction;  a  health clinic established by a private voluntary organization; and a market, or centro popular de abasto, sponsored by the Compaflia Nacional de Subsistencias Populares (CONASUPO) . This government-subsidized collective is locally managed and sells, among other things, discount tortilla coupons, called tortibonos.

 

"If there's no resolution, we'll strike."

"Let the commission find another solution."

"Don't let the commission adjourn without an answer."

- Chants at demonstration outside the Govermnent Palace, Toluca, August 28, 1987

 

Nueva Casa Blanca is now organizing itself around three  issues  of  primary concern to the community: education, health care, and food prices. The leadership structure is still tentative, however, as shown by the colonos' emerging political vocabulary Residents all share an intense distrust of those they call lideres, or self­ appointed community organizers associated with outside professionals and representatives of political parties. At the same time, the colonos have an almost messianic belief in dirigentes naturales, or people who lead by example. As one resident explained, 'A lider tells you what to think, while a dirigente natural acts according to the needs of the community, working for the common good."

There is also a deep suspicion of official negotiations because private deals can be struck between so-called community representatives and the authorities. "Getting too close to officials in order to achieve your goals is dangerous;' explained the manager of the CONASUPO store. "The government pulls at even the best dirigentes naturales and tries to corrupt them ."

Distrust in private dialogue with authorities is so great that during the rally in Toluca, one of Nueva Casa Blanca's delegates would emerge at regular intervals throughout the meeting with the governor's secretary, to update the group outside. Despite this lack of faith in the likelihood of honest representation, however, a three -member CONASUPO committee does exist, and an eight-person school board was recently elected. But they always meet at public gatherings, never in private.

Although it is often difficult to establish the beginnings of " community “ in Nueva Casa Blanca it seems that three apparently unrelated incidents provided impetus for the colonia's burgeoning public institutions - one a family tragedy, one a staple food shortage, and one a casual comment. The final push to build a local school came after a small girl drowned in the canal on her way to another school across the bridge. The CONASUPO store was started when the market in a neighboring colonia responded to a shortage of tortillas by deciding to stop selling tortibonos to customers from Nueva Casa Blanca. And finally, the health clinic was established after the executive director of the Fundacion Mexicana para la Planeacion Familiar (MEXFAM) mentioned to his field coordinator that Chalco's colonias might be suitable sites for the organization's innovative community-doctor homesteading program, which provides subsidies in the beginning but ultimately requires that financial responsibility be assumed by the local community.

Foreshadowing these three somewhat formal institutions, there are smaller, more subtle indications of neighbors talking and working together . Precursors are found in the committees, set up by families with hookups from the same light post, to maintain electrical transformers; in the truckloads of gravel brought in by the community to fill mud holes in the dirt streets; and in the system of launching skyrockets to warn others when a troublesome landlord appears. Despite the obvious benefits of such acts of solidarity, residents of Nueva Casa Blanca have also learned that community activism can have bleak consequences for those who are not care ful, as witnessed by the unresolved murder case that still hangs heavily over the colonia .

 

"He told me, 'I'm not leaving you anything, but I'll give you a piece of advice. Don't get mixed up with friends. It's better to go your own way alone? And that's what I've done all my life."

                       - Jesus Sanchez, speaking in the late 1950s about his father

 

"There are many dedicated people in the different colonias of Valle de Chalco who work for the common good. Their efforts to organize community residents are fraught with problems, however, because they encounter official resistance to, rather than support for, their labors."

                                  -Ramiro Diaz Valadez, from an article in UnoMasUno,

                                      September 4, 1987

 

In September 1987, Macedonio Rosas Garrido , his wife Rita , and his sister Guadalupe spoke to me about Nueva Casa Blanca, their efforts on its behalf, and their feelings about its fu ture. The testimonials of these contemporary "children of Sanchez;' which are patterned after Lewis's original oral histories, are intended to be more symbolic than representative of new community initiatives among Mexico City's lower class. The conversations, purposely directed toward the subjects covered, were transcribed from tape recordings and translated. The names of the family members, as well as the name of their colonia, have been changed.

 

MACEDONIO ROSAS GARRIDO

I'm 33 years old and was born in Mexico City. I've got about 10 brothers and sisters living all over the city. One sister lives next to me here in Nueva Casa Blanca. My father died about 17 years ago, but my mother is still living in a  little  village  called Tecama in the colonia 5 de Mayo. I've been married 11 years and have three children, two girls and a boy. I'm an eight-wheel truck driver, but it's been more than a year since I had regular work.

We ended up living here four years ago because we heard that the ejidatarios were selling land. We were interested because we were living in a tenement of about 10 families near San Andres . The building didn't have a name: I think only the older and bigger tenements have names. We were renting there, and twice a year the owners would raise our rent. We started off paying 230 pesos a month and by the time we left, it was up to 1,500. So with a lot of sacrifice, we bought this lot here and built the house, little by little. The cement floor just went down last year.

In the center of the city, life in a tenement is crowded, sad, but here it's sadder still. Over there we had water, sewers, electricity - all the services. Maybe not one or two blocks away, but we had everything we needed, like markets and schools. Out here we have to fight to get an education for our kids, and it's dangerous because the schools are so far away We even battle for water to drink.

Friendships and the sense of solidarity are the same here as there. I left a lot of compadres in the  tenement, a lot of friends. I'm very sincere when I make a friend, and I think that when someone is my friend, they're sincere too. When  I first got here I didn't know anyone, but then - little by little - I got to know people.

The earthquake didn't do much damage here. We were getting up and the house shook, that was all. Something happened afterwards, though. About a year ago during the windy season between January and March, there were really strong gusts, and wind devils. We didn't have any problems with the earthquake, but with the high winds, yes, we did. In one case a mother was washing clothes outside her house and had left her baby hanging inside in a cradle. A gust came up and took the roof off her house and everything inside it - including the baby.

The ejidatarios, they make money not twice but three times off this land: first when they use it for farming, second when they sell it to people like myself, and third when the government pays them to transfer it back. I don't know any original landowners that still live around here. They all live where they' ve got conveniences like water, telephones, paved roads, and sewers. They aren't going to be so stupid as to come here and suffer after having made out so well selling us the land.

We have to fight for everything. Sometimes it can be dangerous. I really don't know much about the man who got killed because when I moved here it had already happened. My neighbors told me about it. They said he was killed because he was putting up electrical wires for people. You know; illegal hookups to get electricity to the houses. They say nobody had him killed. The men he was working with just killed him because they thought they could charge money for what this guy was doing for free to help the community. Some say the killers got caught and others say they didn't.

Some people are afraid to do too much because of this killing. It's an example. That guy was a government employee, a bodyguard for the ex-president's brother, and he still got killed. What can his neighbors think, who don't have any protection like he had?

In Nueva Casa Blanca there aren't any official organizers ... any politics of any kind. It's simply a battle we're all fighting together - all the neighbors - for the benefit of the colonia. And by the way, we aren't afraid of the authorities as much as of each other. Afraid that somebody among us might propose some dirty business like those killers did. Those guys didn't have any political connections, nothing to do with the authorities, just personal ambition.

What we've got to do is fight together, like we're doing now. We form committees to ask for services for this colonia: We go to Toluca if we have to, or to Chalco or Ixtapaluca, or wherever else we have to go.

There are various groups that maintain the electrical hookups. Each group is in effect the owner of its own transformer box. Some boxes have 10 or 20 families hooked up - ours has 50 - and everyone has to mark their own cable so they know which is theirs. But there's one person in charge of the box, and when he needs money to buy a new fuse or a new main cable, we all pitch in. With our box we've always had cooperation from everybody. Some other guys run their box like a business, and call meetings every week just to ask for more money That's what happened to us at first. One guy appointed himself in  charge, and he exploited us whenever he could. Finally we got tired, and chose someone else who does a good job.

I've got this big cistern, but not for any special reason or because I want to make money out of it. In the rainy season the water trucks can't get through the muddy streets, so they don't come. Not everyone has the luxury of having a cistern. Some get their water in SO-gallon barrels, while others, with less money, get theirs in buckets. When it's wet and the people with buckets run out, I give a little to whoever needs it. You know, some people charge 400 pesos for 200 liters and 100 pesos for a bucket. It's robbery because really water shouldn't even cost half that much.

The primary school we're building came from the idea of one person, who told someone else, who told another person, and that's how the idea started taking shape until the moment came that it became a reality It wasn't anything political. We're all cooperating in the const ruction. It's work for men, but to finish the school, the mothers do some heavy work too. They work side by side with the men.

We have plenty of labor but no capital to buy materials. We give what we can - 100, 200, 500, 1,000 pesos - but you must realize, it's a real sacrifice. We're using pieces of old wood and used cardboard. We've already got seven temporary classrooms, but I hope to God that the winds don't come up early, because then we'd lose these rooms and everything. By the time the windy season starts, we've got to have the classrooms more secure.

You see, we're humble people here. We've barely got money to eat so it's impossible to finish the school right. Maybe over the long term, if we build two classrooms a year. We still hope the government steps in. But if the government says no, we've only got our own resources to work with, which are very low. Yet little by little, maybe one classroom a year....

"Almost 20 schools are built each day. The 1982-86 Administration."

-   Road sign on Avenida  Zaragosa  outside Ciudad Nezahualcoyotl

 

I don't believe it! Imagine! To say they' re building 20 schools a day is crazy You can't believe it. In Mexico City there are millions of people, but if they build 20 schools a day where is the city going to end up? It will be pure schools and no more people. Oh, in the whole country? Well, it still seems exaggerated.

The school still doesn't have a name. For the time being, we call it Nueva Creaci6n (New Creation), not because that's its real name but because it's brand new. The children are going to choose its name. It doesn't have to be named after someone from Mexican history either. The old school is named Simon Bolivar, and he doesn't have anything to do with the history of Mexico. And the other school is named Beethoven, and you know perfectly well that Beethoven isn't famous because he did something for Mexico.

The owners are still a threat. We're afraid they might come by, not to take back the lot, because that's impossible now that we've petitioned the authorities , nor to steal our building material. What we're really afraid of is that they'll come for revenge and burn all the laminated panels we put up as a temporary roof. They'd go up in a second. But we won't have to worry once the real roof is in place.

And the skyrockets? Well, we bought them because we had other problems with the landowners. We took over big lots for the kindergarten we want to build next so there'd be plenty of room, and we did get some threats. So the skyrockets are in case of an emergency if they come to take back the lots. We shoot the rockets off to pass the word to all the parents to come to the school and stop the owners from harming our children.

We haven't had to use the rockets often, thank God, only once or twice. We' ve never had to fight or anything . Only confrontations and arguments. One owner is all right and the other is really negative. They have threatened us with legal proceedings, and one came waving some papers in our faces, which he wouldn't let us read. So we ignored him. And once he brought a lawyer , and a photographer who took our picture and said everyone in the picture would go to jail.

When the government gets around to our petitions, we're ready to support the owners if they have supported us. We' ll go with them to the authorities so they get other land in compensation for what we're taking for the school. We don 't have the power to give it to them ourselves, but we realize that they could lose all their rightful inheritance. If we don't go in a committee to speak up for them , they could lose their land.

 

GUADALUPE ROSAS GARRIDO

I'm Macedonia's older sister by nine years. I've got three grown children and two grandchildren. I'm with my husband here and my youngest daughter, who's 18. We moved out from Mexico City three years ago after Macedonio told us they were selling land for less than we were paying for rent downtown 

I'll tell you how we got our CONASUPO store. They began selling tortibonos at a store in another colonia named lndependencia, at 64 pesos for 2 kilos -the same as it is now. In other places the price for 2 kilos was 130 pesos. Today, without coupons. 2 kilos will cost you 200 pesos. We used to go to the store on the other side of the red bridge at the highway. But sometimes they wouldn't have enough for everybody, and then they told everyone from Nueva Casa Blanca that they couldn't sell to us anymore.

When I first moved here, before the coupon system began, there was another CONASUPO store in Nueva Casa Blanca. It had been opened along with stores in four other colonias, but they all finally closed. Ours had a problem with the woman in charge. She acted as though she was the owner. People didn't like that, so they stopped going.

We all learned that we needed someone with the right personality to run the store this time, someone who wouldn't call himself the boss. And by fighting and pushing and doing whatever took away our silence, we learned we could succeed, not just with the store but in other things, too.

Let's say it was the start of getting to know each other and learning about everyone's problems, not just financial, but social and physical too. Trying to open the store became a way to communicate. It was a basis for better financial and community support for everyone. That's how you learn about yourself, and acquire the respect that self-respect deserves. One of the best ways to find out what people need is for them to go out and look for it themselves .

 

"The desire to know and to demonstrate that one knows is born in the heart of man."

                - Benito Juarez, inscription at the Secretariat of Public  Education

 

Mutual needs you see and live and feel are what help you join with others. There isn't any organizing here, rather we're a group. We've united to move forward toward finding and solving our common needs. Before, we didn't have an organization. Each of us lived our own lives. We didn't see each other: nobody knew who was who, not even each other's names. Everyone kept their needs inside. But once we had the store there was something to talk about. Thanks to that store, we've gotten the courage to tell the authorities about what else we need.

And then we had the idea for the school. We fought, marched, went to see the authorities. But they paid no attention to our petitions, so we now propose to insist on what is ours. What's the difference between requesting and insisting? "Request" is to ask for something that has been promised, and then you keep on waiting. "Insist" is when you see a lot of promises that are never delivered, then you protest . . . and march. That's our way of insisting so they will listen to us.

We hold meetings every Saturday morning at 10 o' clock. Dona Carmen and Dona Zenobia and I are on the CONASUPO store committee. Everyone comes to those meetings. That's how we began to talk about the school. The salary for the store manager and the money for the rallies, to take petitions to the authorities, come from the store.

Yes, I feel like an example for others because, more than anything, we all should be like this. Not to get ahead of the others, no, but simply to be decisive, to know how to talk, to write, to make our needs known. Because if we women are silent, or don't speak up, the authorities will never listen to us, and women will never be treated well. Women should have the same rights as men.

Before, I was very tied to the home. I was the first that tried to get tortibonos at the Independencia store, and I told some of my friends here about them, that I wished we had tortibonos here. That's how I was accepted by these people, and they listened to me. That's when I decided to get more involved, to help my colonia a little more, and me too. And until now I haven't felt like stopping, not until what we want is achieved.

I've made new friends. I've been accepted by some people and rejected by others, but I don't pay attention to the rejection, I just keep on fighting because you have to realize that we have a lot of jealous people in this colonia, people that really don't care about the well-being of others. They're conformists, without any desire to improve themselves. Some are among the first people that moved here, others are new. Maybe they don't have any little ones who risk their lives going to school, or they're just backward. We don't ask their support, but we also don't want them to drag us down. They see the school, our sacrifices as parents, and instead of being quiet they're against us. A lot of parents are under their influence ... well, maybe just a few. The rest of us have decided to carry forward without paying attention to them.

No, I don't feel proud of myself, just satisfied. Nothing more than that. Not proud, because I don't have any reason, because we're equal here. But satisfied, yes, in seeing that something has succeeded in our colonia. I don't think about the present as much as the future because I have grandchildren and I want them to have an education.

RITA MARTINEZ DE ROSAS

 I was born in Poza Rica, in the state of Veracruz, and went to Mexico City 15 years ago. Macedonio and I moved out here with the children four years ago. My sister lives in this colonia, too. She's a store cashier and helps us out sometimes. The money I make selling comic books at the school isn't very much. Out here nothing's certain, that's for sure, but it's a little better now that the school is being built. Now the children won't have to walk so far.

"To buy school supplies, parents must pay 25,000 pesos per child - the equivalent of one-and-a-half times the monthly minimum wage!'

                  - from an article in El Excelsior, September 2, 1987

What do I know about the MEXFAM clinic? I know its specialty is family planning, but they also give general exams and attend to children. The doctor treats everybody Most days there are a lot of people to see him-at least 15 or 20-and they come from other colonias too. The doctor helps the community a lot because he's the only one we have. We still don't have a doctor on duty both day and night. My little girls sometimes have sore throats and diarrhea. It's very common here because we have no water system.

 If the doctor's able, he gives us medicines for free because the pharmacies charge so much. Everyone else pitches in too. If someone brings medicine back from the free pharmacy at the social security hospital and doesn't need it, they give it to the doctor to give to someone who does. He charges very little compared to others, less than they charge at the government clinic in Ayotla, plus that clinic is so far away.

 MEXFAM brought the doctor here two years ago. When the clinic first started th ere was a lady doctor, now we've got a man doctor. Sometimes his sister comes. She's a dentist, and she charges the same as her brother. He's also thinking of putting in a small hospital, with beds for overnight patients and baby deliveries. He wants to get the midwife who lives nearby to cover for him at night. There's a social worker who gets us together to talk about how we can improve our nutrition, to make things better here for our children's health. We don't have a support committee for the doctor, but I think we should.

 The tortibono coupons from the CONASUPO store are necessary because there are lots of families here with hardly anything to eat. Some of them have six or eight children, and there aren't enough tortillas or the money to buy them. A family with five people can eat four or five kilos of tortillas a day because we eat them for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. They only let you buy two kilos a day with the bonos. Really, a family with a lot of people needs more tortillas than that.

I buy milk from the subsidized dairy three times a week. We have to go all the way to the other side of the highway. It costs 300 pesos for four liters, and they limit how much you can buy, depending on how many children you have. If you have more than four children you can buy it every day. Still, it would be a good idea to have our own dairy here. Maybe that should be our next project.

 About the death of that little schoolgirl, it really brought us together with her mother. When they found her little girl's body in the canal, we saw we all lived here and just how bad the consequences of that ditch can be.

Some anthropologists dispute Lewis's concept of the "culture of poverty" as too restrictive. Lewis, in fact, sometimes defined it as a subculture rather than a culture, and he recorded testimony from his informants demonstrating a wider variety of experiences among the poor. Even if Lewis's conclusions were valid some 30 years ago, the concept today might have to take into account people like the Garrido family. Their openness, their belief in a better future for their children, and their willingness to act on behalf of the community stand in sharp contrast to the individualism and fatalism expressed by Jesus Sanchez .

 The community achievements in Nueva Casa Blanca are such that Macedonio Rosas Garrido would never tell his son, as Sanchez was told by his father, "Don't get mixed up with friends. It's better to go your own way, alone.”      

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"No One Elected Me, I Just Stood Up"- Oral History of Community Activism in a Mexican Squatter Settlement, Part 6

Epilogue

 

What happened in Dario Martinez was not what I initially set out to find. I found no neat, happy, or idealized ending to a neighborhood's quest to build its own institutions and perhaps create its own system of governance. The seed from which in September 1987 I thought this might grow, the collective building of a schoolyard fence, did not in fact symbolize anything larger than just what it intended to enclose.

Their own school is what people wanted and their own school is all they fought for and finally achieved.     Not a broad-based community organization, not a political party, not even a smoothly functioning Parent-Teacher Association. Just a decent, nearby place to send their children for an education, so that parents would not have to bury another Ricarda Huayapan drowned on her long walk to class.

But I was not the only outsider curious about what in Dario Martinez might grow, or explode, from a mounting impatience with the existing order. For one reason or another, and I could never clarify this despite many efforts, UPREZ arranged for Daniel to move into the neighborhood to begin recruiting and organizing on its behalf.  And for a time, UPREZ was able to shed its outsider's clothes and be seen as part of the neighborhood.

But Daniel moved to Dario Martinez too late to use the fight for the school as a recruiting device for UPREZ.    By then the school. was already up and functioning.  It already had a PTA, an energetic principal living in the community, and a motivated group of young teachers.    And without school-age children of his own, Daniel lacked even a purely personal reason to get involved.  School matters were thus to remain pretty much out of his hands.

Outsiders of a decidedly different political persuasion also took note of Dario Martinez and the Valle de Chalco's many other colonias.   Alarm bells had sounded in PR! headquarters not long after its setback there in the 1988 presidential elections.    Hence the near bottomless pork barrel of PRI's National Program of Solidarity, and hence Catarino's job with the neighborhood's Self-Help Council.    As Daniel said, "PRI doesn't reward friends anymore, it just buys off enemies."

The fact that both UPREZ and PR! used Dario Martinez as a kind of laboratory in which to experiment with- call it what you will- community mobilization, political consciousness raising, or personal co-optation, did not seem to influence the neighborhood's failure to develop its own truly grassroots institutions.  That can be blamed on neither the right nor the left.

The one incipient organization that might have so developed, the neighborhood PTA, became stalled by its very success.   It was originally created by community consensus to erect a provisionally functioning school and to pressure government authorities for a new building.   With Guadalupe as its first president, it did this work energetically and single-mindedly.   It was during her term that, despite the odds, the school took shape and opened its doors.

When Estela took over·from Guadalupe, a transition aided by her act as jailbird/martyr on behalf of the school, she devoted the PTA less to educational activism and more to political intrigue.  Estela tried but could not block the dissident teacher's efforts to oust the principal. Complaints grew over the size and frequency of obligatory school fees.   These and other disputes split parents and teachers into factions and dissolved the cooperative spirit that had prevailed under Guadalupe.

By the time Rafaela was uncontestedly elected to head the PTA, the government had already agreed to build the new school.    But by then the PTA had lost most of its community support.   Open meetings were poorly attended, few parents gave voluntary contributions for special school projects, and the PTA was excluded from the decision of how to dispose of the old classrooms.   Its mandate to represent parents' interests had been effectively withdrawn.

Not surprisingly, the inauguration of the new school building was fraught with anti-climax. Classes first met there after the Christmas vacation in February 1990.  A small schoolyard ceremony was held for students, but the principal hoped later to throw a neighborhood fiesta complete with music, food and drink,­ and a commemorative mass.      But money, as usual, stood in the way.

Until then I had been a silent observer and quiet listener of all that happened in Dario Martinez.    I had conscientiously avoided taking sides, voicing approval, or breaking confidences.   I had also, diplomatically I hoped, turned down "loan" requests from several people not connected to my interviews but whom I still knew and liked.

But I did feel strongly that there should be a party, a big party.     I thought, at the least, that a mariachi band, beer, soda, good food, and fancy decorations were in order to celebrate the neighborhood's first pre-fab, glass­-windowed, two story concrete building.   After all, this was their new school , the fruit of their hard-won victory over adversity.   So during my February visit I decided finally to compromise my neutrality for what I took to be a good cause.

Because there was no longer a PTA treasurer, nor for that matter an official ledger of school accounts, I saw that making a sizable donation might compromise my position. To overcome any misunderstanding, I took advantage of one fairly well-attended PTA meeting to ask Rafaela and the principal to accept $100 to help underwrite a school fiesta.    Whatever was left, I mentioned, might be used to buy classrooms supplies.

The principal said there was little time to plan such an event before my departure and instead suggested that we wait for my next visit.   I insisted that the party go on as soon as possible, with or without me.   Maybe, I thought, I might even recoup my impartiality in the community if in fact I were absent. That way at least the party would be an uninhibited event, not staged for some outside patron's benefit.

So all I asked of the principal was that he send me some party photographs­ which in retrospect I should not have waited so long to receive.     They never came, and because my only contact with Dario Martinez lacking telephone and postal service- was to write Guadalupe in care of her in-laws, I decided not to investigate by mail.  I would have to wait until I returned in person.

Yes, the principal told me when I arrived in November for the election, indeed a fiesta was held.    And yes, everyone came and enjoyed themselves.   But no, no one took pictures.  When I asked others about the party, few could even remember attending.   Yes, they said, there had been something or other in June on the last day of classes, but wasn't it an end-of-year ceremony as usual? Nothing special, thought most.

Perhaps it was all for the best that my gift was forgotten.    Lost, misused, or spent unnoticed on school miscellany- it did not matter.   Now I simply felt like all the other parents whose voluntary contributions always went unappreciated. That the community felt no special obligation to me was in fact a relief.   Where the money actually went, I never bothered to find out.

My November trip was memorable for other reasons however.    Unlike all the other visits, when I investigated important community events already past- such as Ricarda's drowning, Estela's jailing, or Guadalupe's showdown with the police­ this time they were occurring before my own eyes.   Reading press accounts of the Antorchista massacre as the news unfolded, and sensing the naked fear pervading the neighborhood in its bloody aftermath, I felt suddenly anchored to what was happening there.

People who were my friends and confidants might well have died up on that hillside, killed in a dispute that figured prominently in my research, on the very day I was on my way to see them.  This was not exactly a close brush with death, although certainly in Estela's case it could have been, but it did change my hold on the place.   I was no longer simply an oral historian.     If things heated up, I might become a kind of battlefield journalist; later I might even be called as a witness in a trial for the murder of someone I knew.

But good sense prevailed.  People withdrew from the hillside, the police laid down their weapons, and Juan Martinez fled the law.   The elections went on as planned and, as usual, they provided a harmless if predictable sideshow to the events they immediately followed.   In Mexico, there is nothing like an obviously rigged election and a proforma protest by the opposition to calm one's nerves.

But in one sense, this election did serve as a kind of watershed event in Dario Martinez.  It motivated Estela and Guadalupe actually to vote for the first time in their lives.  Not that they did so however because they thought the election would finally be clean.  Their skepticism about that was obvious to anyone who listened.  Entering a voting booth, and thereby breaking through the invisible barrier which previously had kept them from participating in electoral politics, required much more of a psychological adjustment.

For Estela it was the need to feel she had won something, that she had chosen correctly and so in some small way could collect a prize.   For her it meant going against her principles, her rhetoric, and her past as an UPREZ militant. It meant voting for PRI, the pre-ordained winner, and then, even more difficult, not talking about it.  For once in her life she had to celebrate her victory in private.

For Guadalupe, her vote for PRTZ also meant a reordering of principles.    All politicians were not alike, she had to convince herself.   Some were better than others. Some might actually improve things.   And Guadalupe's sense of duty to the neighborhood, what she always said stemmed from "necessity, pure necessity", led her even further, to work all day as a poll watcher.       To ma e the connection between providing public services and guaranteeing a clean election, she certainly had to show signs of a new faith.

So this is how I left them- Estela a closet PRIista, Guadalupe a dutiful radical.   Both voted in their own way, both for their own good reasons.        Daniel meanwhile confirmed the direction of his previously detected emotional drift away from the neighborhood and seemed ready to move on physically as well.  And Catarino- who knows?· If President Salinas's promised big party shake-out finally does reach his level of the bureaucracy, yes, he probably will survive. He is, after all, too good a ventriloquist dummy to throw away.

For three years I had been visiting Dario Martinez with such regularity that my comings and goings were no longer of much interest to anyone.      Guadalupe paid little attention even to the news that this visit might be my last for a long while.      I promised to share with her whatever might in the meantime emerge from our many interviews, we traded final pleasantries, and she shook my hand.

Walking down the long dirt street one last time from her house to Estela's, on my way to yet another bittersweet goodbye, I passed wall after wall of freshly whitewashed signs already starting to fade.   Older signs in the crude hand of self-taught neighborhood artists, covered over by these new signs painted with the precision of an imported election campaign, were slowly becoming legible again.

 "Rosa's Funerals- Special Prices for People with Few Pesos" floated up from "Decide with Your Vote!  Will it be Misery or Joy?".   "Stud Pig for Rent Here" reappeared under "Because the Chance for Social Peace is in Your Hands''. "World of Drugs, Street of Terror, Chalco Theater October 25" reemerged through "For a Better Life, Vote Like This".

It struck me that the entire neighborhood might be such a palimpsest of dreams and reality.  But to whom belonged the dreams and to whom the reality? Outsiders would still and always come and go, bringing electricity, voting booths, and their many other promises of change.   But their view of the Valle de Chalco is nothing but a point of debate, mere subject matter for the conflicting strategies, speeches, and sermons of social planners, politicians, and priests- they who come from elsewhere, who later have somewhere more to go.

The real neighborhood would continue to stand still, or at best barely to inch forward, but always on its own terms.    Reality here belongs to insiders like Guadalupe and Estela, two friends bonded by ties of community and circumstance so strong that no disagreement over UPREZ, PRTZ, or the PTA can sever.   For, as neighbors, they literally do share the same view.    And whenever the clouds part momentarily over lxtaccihuatl, they stand side by side, looking together down their unpaved street and up upon the same snowy heights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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