The places that nineteenth century tourists visited in Nubia no longer exist.
-Up the Nile, Deborah Bull and Donald Lorimer
KhairAllah took me to see Al-Amiri Yaseen in the Dongola souk, who Hajj Bashir had telephoned to ask how Daoud and I looked when we’d reached his halfway point on Day 20, and Bashir later told me that Al-Amiri told him we looked about normal for two khawajas on their first camel drive. And KhairAllah took me to meet the Shaheen family, congenital deafness afflicting all three generations living on the banks of Batan al-Hajar, a cataract known as the Belly of Stones, and they put me up for the night. And KhairAllah steered the herd close by Sulb Temple across the river from Wawa village when I told him that Nedu would like a shot of it on film, and he did. So to say that such places in Nubia no longer exist is an exaggeration. In the twenty first century you just have to keep going farther south.